OpticsTalk by SWFA, Inc. Homepage SWFA     SampleList.com
Forum Home Forum Home > Firearms, Bows, and Ammunition > Reloading & Ballistics
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - case lubrication
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Visit the SWFA.com site to check out our current specials.

case lubrication

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <123>
Author
Message
pyro6999 View Drop Down
Optics Retard
Optics Retard
Avatar
OT TITAN

Joined: December/22/2006
Location: North Dakota
Status: Offline
Points: 22034
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pyro6999 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 19:44
yes i debur and chamfer both but it still happends, i will have to look into a vld thanks for the tip
They call me "Boots"
375H&H Mag: Yeah, it kills stuff "extra dead"

343 we will never forget

God Bless Chris Ledoux
"good ride cowboy"
Back to Top
Oregunner View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
Optics GrassHopper


Joined: March/02/2008
Location: Central Oregon
Status: Offline
Points: 2
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oregunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 22:05
Tri-Flow works.
Oregunner
Back to Top
cheaptrick View Drop Down
MODERATOR
MODERATOR
Avatar

Joined: September/27/2004
Location: South Carolina
Status: Offline
Points: 20844
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cheaptrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/03/2008 at 03:55
I use a K&M Mandrel (Case Neck Expander) for new cases or if I need to expand the case neck for any reason.
I had a bad time with expander buttons leaving me with excessive run out. Got tired of fighting them.
 
If I have to FLS a spent case, I use a  Lee Decapping Die and a RCBS FL die with no spindle or expander button. Little more work, but this system saves my case mouth from getting tore up. 
 
The K&M Chamfer tool kicks ass too!! I highly recommend it.
 
 
Back to Top
Dolphin View Drop Down
Optics Master
Optics Master


Joined: October/05/2006
Location: North Carolina
Status: Offline
Points: 1795
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dolphin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/03/2008 at 07:41
I use the Lyman deburring and chamfer tool that is rechargeable and it is great also.  Comes with a lot of different size mandrels.  I will have to try the Q tip thing.  Although I have only had one problem with getting the thingy stuck and it was with a Hornady die set.
Back to Top
Bigdaddy0381 View Drop Down
MODERATOR
MODERATOR
Avatar
Georgia peach

Joined: February/27/2007
Location: Georgia
Status: Offline
Points: 13682
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bigdaddy0381 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/03/2008 at 07:45
After I size, trim, debur chamfer (sp) I thro them back in the tumbler for about an hours or so to get the oil off. Plus it makes them shiny again with no finger prints.I use latex gloves when useing powder so no prints are on the cases. They may not shoot but boy do they look good. lmao
 
 
P&Z Firearms , Pro gun cleanings and gun repair and wood refinishing.

Ecclesiastes 10:2
Back to Top
Dale Clifford View Drop Down
Optics Jedi Knight
Optics Jedi Knight


Joined: July/04/2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 5087
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dale Clifford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/03/2008 at 08:15
one thing on cleaning cases after lubing, either do it consistently or don't do it at all, The amount of friction and case adhesion is significantly different in both cases. Usually just a light wipe down will do, but do what ever the same. each case each time. One trick I use on autos is leaving the light film, which allows a significant difference in case extraction.
Back to Top
8shots View Drop Down
Optics Jedi Knight
Optics Jedi Knight
Avatar
Lord Of The Flies

Joined: March/14/2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 6253
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8shots Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/04/2008 at 01:46
We have a household cooking product called Spray and Cook. It contains Teflon. It is used to spray on cooking and baking utensils to prevent food sticking to the pan etc. Engineers build a bridge across a gorge in Knysa. The bridge was built from one end on skids and pushed along as it was lengthened. At a point it got stuck. Some bright spark suggested Spray and Cook. Well it worked and the bridged was pushed along.
 
I use the same product on my cases and dies. I put all my cases in a shell holder and spray them all round and slightly into the mouth. Then I squirt a little into the die. They slip in and out of the die like a ...well.... you get the picture! The only thing is you have to rinse the cases and the dies with thinners afterwards, as the Spray and Cook hardens after a while (as in a week) to allmost a shellac. Also clean your work surface afterwards.
Back to Top
RONK View Drop Down
Optics Master Extraordinaire
Optics Master Extraordinaire
Avatar

Joined: April/05/2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 3199
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RONK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/04/2008 at 17:37
Originally posted by 8shots 8shots wrote:

We have a household cooking product called Spray and Cook. It contains Teflon. It is used to spray on cooking and baking utensils to prevent food sticking to the pan etc. Engineers build a bridge across a gorge in Knysa. The bridge was built from one end on skids and pushed along as it was lengthened. At a point it got stuck. Some bright spark suggested Spray and Cook. Well it worked and the bridged was pushed along.
 
I use the same product on my cases and dies. I put all my cases in a shell holder and spray them all round and slightly into the mouth. Then I squirt a little into the die. They slip in and out of the die like a ...well.... you get the picture! The only thing is you have to rinse the cases and the dies with thinners afterwards, as the Spray and Cook hardens after a while (as in a week) to allmost a shellac. Also clean your work surface afterwards.
 
We have something like that in the States. It is called PAM.  I don't think it contains Teflon, though. Anybody lube cases with PAM?
Back to Top
sakomato View Drop Down
Optics Master
Optics Master
Avatar

Joined: February/28/2008
Location: Houston
Status: Offline
Points: 1166
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sakomato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/04/2008 at 22:07
Still use the RCBS lube and roll 'em on the pad.  Just use very little.  Never had a stuck case.  Had the same bottle of case lube for years now.
 
Like cheaptrick I got rid of the expander ball too.  Use the Lee Collet Neck Sizer and reduce your runout significantly and no lube inside the neck. 
Guns only have 2 enemies, rust and politicians
Back to Top
CWPINST View Drop Down
Optics Apprentice
Optics Apprentice


Joined: August/01/2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 113
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CWPINST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2008 at 21:27
I have found several better options than the old pad routine.  The first, for high volume loading is Hornady's One Shot and an old shoe box.  Lay the cases in the shoe box until the bottom is about 2/3 full (with enough room for the cases to roll around on the bottom).  Spray the cases in the box for about 2 seconds then shake for about 5 seconds.  Repeat twice and you are done.  You can lube about 40-50 .308 cases in less than a minute.........depending on your shoe size!!  Learned this one on AR-15.com.

Next is to use Imperial sizing wax applied with fingers.  This stuff is great.  Not as fast as the shoe box trick, but it is perfect for loading just a few rounds.  Much better than the greasy crap on the pad.
If it ain't accurate at long distance, the fact that it is flat shooting is irrelevant.
Back to Top
Bigdaddy0381 View Drop Down
MODERATOR
MODERATOR
Avatar
Georgia peach

Joined: February/27/2007
Location: Georgia
Status: Offline
Points: 13682
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bigdaddy0381 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/09/2008 at 15:24
I have used lucas oil stabilizer. it worked better than anything I have tryed. It dosen't take much at all and goes along ways.
P&Z Firearms , Pro gun cleanings and gun repair and wood refinishing.

Ecclesiastes 10:2
Back to Top
BeltFed View Drop Down
Optics Retard
Optics Retard
Avatar

Joined: February/12/2008
Location: Ky
Status: Offline
Points: 22284
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeltFed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/09/2008 at 17:37
Dillon case lube, by their directions. I believe it's lanolin and alcohol. I use either the Dillon or Pacific carbide neck expander for the necks; works great.
Life's concerns should be about the 120lb pack your trying to get to the top of the mountain, and not the rock in your boot.
Back to Top
VN350X10 View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
Optics GrassHopper
Avatar

Joined: April/13/2008
Location: McHenry, IL
Status: Offline
Points: 26
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VN350X10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/11/2008 at 19:54
Crane Cam Super Lube.
It's an additive used for breaking in a new camshaft, added to engine oil during first fire up.
A fantastic hi-pressure lube, I use it for heavy case forming operations. Needs to be removed after use. Messy, sticky, smelly, lots of sulfer smell. Works great thou.
 
Will probably use Imperial wax next time, avoid the cleanup step.
 
uncle albert
My gun safe is LARGER than my first appartment !
Back to Top
AWS View Drop Down
Optics GrassHopper
Optics GrassHopper


Joined: April/05/2008
Status: Offline
Points: 42
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AWS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2008 at 22:22
I've been using MOTOR MEDIC on a Q-tip inside and outside the neck for forming 204 cases up tp .22, .24 and .25.  I just bought some  Imperial Sizing Wax, will give it a try.
 
AWS
After the first shot the rest are just noise.
Back to Top
8shots View Drop Down
Optics Jedi Knight
Optics Jedi Knight
Avatar
Lord Of The Flies

Joined: March/14/2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 6253
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8shots Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2008 at 09:10
When I first started reloading and I was even more stupid then I am today, I used NOTHING!!!
I did not know that case lube had to be applied. My younger brother helped me. We could not understand why the job was so difficult. We virtually pulled and ripped the press and table apart!
Man, looking back, the folly of the ignorant.....!!! 
Back to Top
Longhunter View Drop Down
Optics Journeyman
Optics Journeyman
Avatar

Joined: February/02/2006
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Longhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2008 at 11:58
Interesting set of comments.
 
I use nickel-plated cases and Lee collet dies.  A simple wipe down with WD-40 cleans the cases, and no further lube is needed at any stage of the reloading process.
Back to Top
Dolphin View Drop Down
Optics Master
Optics Master


Joined: October/05/2006
Location: North Carolina
Status: Offline
Points: 1795
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dolphin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2008 at 07:06
Stupid question.  I have the imperical case wax I find it easiest to use by lubricating the die about every 5 or so cases.  Applying it to the cases is messy and uses more that what is needed.  How do you guys use the imperial case wax?
Back to Top
Dolphin View Drop Down
Optics Master
Optics Master


Joined: October/05/2006
Location: North Carolina
Status: Offline
Points: 1795
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dolphin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2008 at 07:08
Also, I may have missed this in a post, but has anyone ever tried Mobile 1 Synthetic motor oil applied to a lube pad?

Edited by Dolphin - May/23/2008 at 07:09
Back to Top
RifleDude View Drop Down
MODERATOR
MODERATOR
Avatar
EVIL OPPRESSOR

Joined: October/13/2006
Location: Texas
Status: Offline
Points: 16337
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RifleDude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2008 at 16:08
Originally posted by Dolphin Dolphin wrote:

How do you guys use the imperial case wax?
 
I use it only for the spindle of my neck turning tool when chucked up in a drill.  For full length resizing lube, I use one of the spray-on case lubes such as the RCBS spray lube.  Otherwise, if I'm neck sizing only, I use a bushing die with coated carbide bushing, which requires no lube.
Ted


Money can't buy happiness... but it's much more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle.
Back to Top
RONK View Drop Down
Optics Master Extraordinaire
Optics Master Extraordinaire
Avatar

Joined: April/05/2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 3199
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RONK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2008 at 12:23
 
Originally posted by Dolphin Dolphin wrote:

  How do you guys use the imperial case wax?
 
 I just dip the pad of my index finger and the pad of my thumb in it and roll  the case in between them.
I use a Q-tip to roll a bit of it inside the neck.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <123>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.154 seconds.