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defective new brass

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/24/2007 at 21:36
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OT TITAN

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i just got some new unfired brass and so i sized it and loaded it up and 12 out of 75 cases split in the necks and im not sure why, anyone else experience something like this?? these were remington brass.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/24/2007 at 21:54
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/24/2007 at 21:54
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thats the worst one of the twelve
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/25/2007 at 18:19
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Have had the same problem with Rem but not that many at a time.

are the nickel really nickel or cadmium plated?

is the scope mount on the rifle a side mount?looks like its setting right on the bolt.

do either of you neck turn your cases?

no camera stuff

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/25/2007 at 19:32
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no they were brand new unfired is that needed??
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/25/2007 at 19:56
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im thinking i just got a bad bag, i bought 2 boxes worth at a gun show and another 2.5 boxes on ebay but i mixed them together and didnt note which was which my bad there.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/26/2007 at 17:55
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well i called a friend of mine who is a blacksmith by day and a hardcore gun fanatic by night and when i told him how the brass looked shiny from the shoulder down and more rough and matte like he said oh of course you have some brittle brass there so anneal it, which i did today and hopefully i can load up some rounds and see what happens this weekend being he is a metal specialist i would assume he knows what he's talking about.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/26/2007 at 21:22
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if anyone has 6.5 rem brass they wanna get rid of let me know
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/08/2008 at 14:57
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Sorry to get into the game late here ( I am slowly reading all the old posts on this site), but this arises a question for me that was not answered here.

I have plenty of experience reloading once- (and several) fired brass before. I am embarking on the slippery slope of high-precision rifle cartridges (.308 specifically), and will likely (after a bit of teething on once-fired Rem and Win brass) go to new, unfired brass from one of the 'premium' makers (such as Laupa) and was wondering:

  • if I would need to anneal this brass before that first loading
  • if so, EXACTLY how to go about doing it correctly
  • how to know I did it correctly?

Laupa brass seems to be around $.50/round (at the moment, and likely to rise) and I'd be rather disappointed to find that the expensive brass is cracked after one firing.Shocked

Any guidance, points to other web pages etc. would be appreciated.
 
Thanks in advance.Yippee
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/08/2008 at 15:18
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Lapua brass has been annealed and is good to go right out of the box.  The flashholes don't need any work as they are drilled instead of punched.  It is top notch stuff.  I saw my groups improve when I Started using it.  The only thing I do to it new is neck size it and then load it up.

I just shot some of mine for the 3rd firing Saturday and I see no stress marks of any kind on the brass.  I don't load hot as I just try to replicated fed gold metal speeds at about 2600 fps.  I will anneal before I resize again.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2008 at 04:36
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Originally posted by J!m J!m wrote:

Sorry to get into the game late here ( I am slowly reading all the old posts on this site), but this arises a question for me that was not answered here.

I have plenty of experience reloading once- (and several) fired brass before. I am embarking on the slippery slope of high-precision rifle cartridges (.308 specifically), and will likely (after a bit of teething on once-fired Rem and Win brass) go to new, unfired brass from one of the 'premium' makers (such as Laupa) and was wondering:

  • if I would need to anneal this brass before that first loading
  • if so, EXACTLY how to go about doing it correctly
  • how to know I did it correctly?

Laupa brass seems to be around $.50/round (at the moment, and likely to rise) and I'd be rather disappointed to find that the expensive brass is cracked after one firing.Shocked

Any guidance, points to other web pages etc. would be appreciated.
 
Thanks in advance.Yippee
 
A tip I read on correctly annealing brass is to use molten lead as your source of heat. Use a small pot (heavy bottom or cast iron pot. Melt enough lead so that when you stick the case neck into the lead it covers that portion you want to anneal. In other words the neck of the case. You should dip the case neck in a bit of oil first to prevent the lead from sticking to the case neck. You keep it in the lead for 10 sec and drop the whole case into cold water.
Remember to use welder gloves, as the oil ignites when it touches the lead. Work in a ventilated area.
The benefits are that the melting point of lead is the correct annealing temp for brass. It also gives you an even all round heating of the case neck.
Practise on a few old cases first to sort out the lead sticking to the case part.


Edited by 8shots - April/09/2008 at 04:38
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2008 at 07:34
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Yeah, I'm seeing visions of lead-coated brass in my future...

I don't think that the oil would be enough to prevent the lead from sticking to the brass. Think "brazing" here for a moment, or sweating pipes together.

I like the concept- but perhaps there is a better fluid not likely to attach to the brass for this purpose. If you cast you own bullets, and have this set-up already it might be a reasonable thing to try. For me to set this all up and have a failure, that is not aceptable...

And, is it really necessary to anneal after every firing? Is it common to do this? As I said, we never annealed pistol brass, and had good luck- this is 'normal' rem and win brass (what ever was cheapest in a loaded cartridge actually was the source of our brass) and we had very few failures of the necks (but they did occur). This may be the wrong way; we may just have been lucky...

Can we start a poll on who anneals and how often?

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2008 at 13:55
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I have a rifle with an oversize neck and I'm openning Rem. 204 brass to .25cal with out anealling it.  Even with all the working this brass gets it's still going at least five loadings befor I get any splits and then it's only a couple per hundred.  I'm going to start anealling it after four loadings from now on.
 
I cant help with the splitting on that rem brass pictured other than it might be really old .  The only time I've run into serious neck splitting is on very old loaded ammo.
 
AWS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2008 at 14:03
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AWS:

This is in line with what I was seeing with the 9mm brass. I have no experience with the Laupa bras, which is why I was asking...

I'd hate to ruin $.50 brass the first firing...

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/10/2008 at 05:53
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I use the lead method. Just buy a few sinkers from a fish tackle shop. My first shell I did was all lead, then I used Q20 and sprayed a dash on the neck. No problems. The lead does not stick to the brass once you have oiled it.
The other methods are to stick the brass in the oven set at the correct temp. They must be in a pan of water with only the necks sticking out. That will give an even controlled heat. Your wifes heat may be uneven and uncontrollable.
The other method is to use a propane flame. When the shell end burns your finger, drop it in the water. The problem is uneven heating and unknown temp.
No you only anneal cases around every 5-8 firings. When you start seeing neck splits, anneal.


Edited by 8shots - April/10/2008 at 05:56
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/10/2008 at 07:01
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That is what I was gathering from this line of Q&A.

If I see a split on the first load, I will anneal them. I would expect 'premium' ras to be ready to go immediately, and not need any additional handling (everything else on the brass is perfect).

And, as soon as I see a split, I will anneal (and more closely inspect all the brass).

Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/10/2008 at 08:15
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Here is an article, one of the best I've read on anealing brass.
It's a good read.
 
AWS
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/10/2008 at 09:12
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Thanks for that link.

I will give it a read now...Yippee

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