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Correct Rifle Action Screw Torque

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2009 at 13:31
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I have seen many references to "properly tightening" or torquing action bedding screws and tang screws lately, but I have not been able to identify the correct torque for any particular action.  Have any of you got access to the torque recommendations?  I am particularly interested in the numbers for Tikka T3, A-Bolt II and Rem 700.  Can anyone help?
 
Thanks in advance,
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2009 at 13:41
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X = 180 Y = 90 (X+Pyro)+(Y-Pyro) = ?

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I don't know that anyone lists a "correct" torque spec. I know many guys who torque their action screws to somewhere between 40-50 In/lbs. Please do not torque them in Ft/lbs, as you will snap them off, or strip them out. I torque mine to 45 In./lbs. Maybe some of the other gun companies list specs, but I've never found any for my rifles. I just make sure I do it consistantly every time.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2009 at 13:46
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Originally posted by trigger29 trigger29 wrote:

I don't know that anyone lists a "correct" torque spec. I know many guys who torque their action screws to somewhere between 40-50 In/lbs. Please do not torque them in Ft/lbs, as you will snap them off, or strip them out. I torque mine to 45 In./lbs. Maybe some of the other gun companies list specs, but I've never found any for my rifles. I just make sure I do it consistantly every time.

not only that but if you make them to tight your rifle will shoot all over the place.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2009 at 14:10
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  This seems to be something new over the last few years. This is how we used to do it. Using a screwdriver or,lately a spintight with the correct bit for the allenhead,we alternately tightened the two action screws until both were snug. Then REALLY TIGHTENED the front screw and TIGHTENED the rear one. The center screw,if applicable,is snugged to get proper adjustment of the floorplate. The important thing is to make sure the action is seated and kept seated back against the recoil lug recess. Just lightly hit the butt of the stock on the floor and grip tightly together the bbl and forend before starting to snug things up.
   Had a friend bring a synthetic stock to me that he had attempted to tighten,as per recommendations,to 60 in lbs. It cracked just in front of the trigger guard. I used a triangular jewlers file and V'd out the short crack and filled it with epoxy. Worked.
   Not saying that torquing is wrong,but be CAREFUL.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2009 at 14:13
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X = 180 Y = 90 (X+Pyro)+(Y-Pyro) = ?

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On my synthetic stock, which is pillar bedded, 45 in/lbs is snug plus about 1/4 turn. Once they get snug, there isn't much room for tightening any more.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2009 at 14:19
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Exactly my point.  I have been using 40 in/lb for the 700 and the Abolt on the front screw and 25 on the tang screw, but I have a Tikka T3 coming and I know I will have to take it out of the stock to see the bedding... and of course I want to put it back together correctly.  I have seen 36 in/lb touted as correct for Sako/Tikka rifles and as a fix for shifting POI on a Sako 75.  But I can't find any manufacturers recomendations in any literature I have or on the web.  I figure someone on this board will have something.  Thanks for the replies!!!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2009 at 16:50
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45 in/lbs is about right.  The 40-50 ST mentions is what I've always heard as well. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2009 at 18:20
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 Some model 70's and other such centerfire rifles used to have three action screws, maybe some still do, I don't keep up on things very well lately...
 Anyway, they had a lot of problems when the middle screw was over-tightened. It would bend or spring the bottom metal and stress the receiver, causing all sorts of wicked behaviors. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/27/2009 at 18:34
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I think on the three screw Winchesters after tightening all three screws you are supposed to back out the middle screw one quarter or one half turn.
Sam
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/28/2009 at 06:08
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 The Winchesters have two pc bottom metal and the middle screw adjusts the floorplate to the release on the trigger guard and to flush with the stock. Not much tightness on that screw at all!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/28/2009 at 08:19
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Originally posted by SamC SamC wrote:

I think on the three screw Winchesters after tightening all three screws you are supposed to back out the middle screw one quarter or one half turn.
Sam
 
That's what I always heard.  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/28/2009 at 08:56
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 Tighten that middle screw as tight as the front a back ones and you may break your trigger guard. I've seen it happen. Just tighten it enough,AFTER tightening the front and rear ones,to get the floorplate to operate correctly with the release and to sit flush with the stock.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/28/2009 at 09:34
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Originally posted by 300S&W 300S&W wrote:

 Tighten that middle screw as tight as the front a back ones and you may break your trigger guard. I've seen it happen. Just tighten it enough,AFTER tightening the front and rear ones,to get the floorplate to operate correctly with the release and to sit flush with the stock.


+1 have this same gun and be careful! you do not need to crank on them.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/03/2009 at 17:23
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Dont know about the others, but I believe the standard Remington 700, including the Police models is 45 in/lbs.  Some folks will say 65 in/lbs. but I think they're getting this info from the military specs for the M24 Rem 700 which has stronger trigger guard assembly.
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