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Cleaning Products/Procedures

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/21/2007 at 04:02
cheaptrick View Drop Down
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I like Shooters Choice and have used it for years.

Great product.

 

But, the last few years I've been using a combination of products with pretty good success.

 

Bolt rifle:

Dewey Rod, some sort of rod guide, Barnes CR-10, nylon brush, patches, and lastly, a oil soaked patch of Montana Extreme Bore Oil, I think it's called. 

 

I don't do bore mops to apply oil in my chamber. 

I'm always paranoid that after the first use, your picking up dirt and crap that sticks to the mop and I felt I'm putting back inside my rifle. (Shrug)

 

Instead, I pull the guide rod and I use 2 .308 oiled patches stuck on the end of my jag, run them into my chamber, (not the barrel), and swirl them around a little. 

 

About every 200 rounds or so I'll give her a good scrub down with Remington Bore Cleaner.

Use infrequently and sparingly.

 

AR 15:

I hate cleaning an AR 15!!!!!!!!!    They are filthy because they crap where they eat!! 

Anywho.......Here's my routine for these creatures.

 

Non-chloride Brake Cleaner to hose her off inside.

(If you haven't tried brake cleaner to clean your AR....TRY IT!! You'll thank me later!!) 

 

Especially in the chamber, the brake cleaner cuts the crud and drys fast. 

It's wonderful and FAST to use on the bolt and carrier group.

Hit the chamber with a brush, install rod guide and push a few patches soaked with CLP down the barrel with Dewey rod.

Using toothbrush and an old chamber brush, I clean the bolt and carrier group and oil it down with Mobil premium motor oil.

 

And lastly, I do the same 2 patch "swirl" in my chamber, like I do on my bolt rifle.

 

Anybody that wants to try the NON-CHLORIDE brake cleaner route, just make sure you get everything lightly re-oiled.

Feed ramps, chambers, exterior of weapon, etc.

The brake cleaner will strip everything free of oil.

For exterior use, I like the spray Rem Oil.

 

Just my routine.

Carry on!! 

 

 

 



Edited by cheaptrick
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/21/2007 at 10:14
ceylonc View Drop Down
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Thanks for posting!  I'm going to the range today to do a break in on a new Lothar Walther 6.5x284.  Glad to see the procedure I am planning to follow jives with yours.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/21/2007 at 10:29
cheaptrick View Drop Down
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Originally posted by ceylonc ceylonc wrote:

Thanks for posting!  I'm going to the range today to do a break in on a new Lothar Walther 6.5x284.  Glad to see the procedure I am planning to follow jives with yours.

 

MMMMM......Lothar Walther barrels.......

They are NICE, C!!

 

Does LW recommend a certain break in procedure with their barrels??  

 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/22/2007 at 00:53
hot30 View Drop Down
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Cheaptrick, have you ever used Ballistol or Kroil???

         Go to ballistol.com, check it out      Hot 30



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/22/2007 at 01:55
cheaptrick View Drop Down
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Originally posted by hot30 hot30 wrote:

Cheaptrick, have you ever used Ballistol or Kroil???

       

 

No sir, I haven't used those two.

I'll check them out though.

Thanks! 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/22/2007 at 10:49
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Originally posted by hot30 hot30 wrote:

Cheaptrick, have you ever used Ballistol or Kroil???

         Go to ballistol.com, check it out      Hot 30

That's interesting, I've been using Kroil in the garage for years. I never thought of using it on guns. I still cling to #9 and also use the Hoppes Benchrest occasionally. A friend uses Ballistol and likes it.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/22/2007 at 11:21
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I like Barnes CR-10 and/or J-B Bore Cleaner to get the copper out and then I finish off with bit o' Hoppe's #9.

Edited by lucznik
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/22/2007 at 14:16
cheaptrick View Drop Down
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Originally posted by lucznik lucznik wrote:

I like Barnes CR-10 and/or J-B Bore Cleaner to get the copper out and then I finish off with bit o' Hoppe's #9.

 

That CR-10 does a nice job on copper, don't it??

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/22/2007 at 14:55
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Yes, it does.

 

 

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/22/2007 at 18:26
hot30 View Drop Down
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Tahqua, Kroil and Ballistol both are super "penetrants"...  The easily work there way under any fouling and you can "soak" your barrel as long as you want...  Fouling can be removed with great ease...  Ballistol is of all natural components, first used by the German armed forces in WWII..mabe it was WWI...  It doesnt freeze either..  You people that shoot slide guns or AR types, it safely does away with powder burns or gas marks where you were afraid to use any ammonia based on exterior finishes...You dont have to worry about getting it into your actions either..

 

                           Hot 30

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/23/2007 at 02:35
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Ballistol is great-I use it all the time,but in combination with Hoppes no9.Hoppes does a better job removing powder residue.Ballistol on the other hand is better on copper,and for exterior.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/23/2007 at 06:26
tahqua View Drop Down
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Originally posted by hot30 hot30 wrote:

Tahqua, Kroil and Ballistol both are super "penetrants"...  The easily work there way under any fouling and you can "soak" your barrel as long as you want...  Fouling can be removed with great ease...  Ballistol is of all natural components, first used by the German armed forces in WWII..mabe it was WWI...  It doesnt freeze either..  You people that shoot slide guns or AR types, it safely does away with powder burns or gas marks where you were afraid to use any ammonia based on exterior finishes...You dont have to worry about getting it into your actions either..

 

                           Hot 30

I will definitely try that on the AR, thanks.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/23/2007 at 09:10
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schaeffer's pentro90 is a great penetrating oil, i use it on barrels and actions, makes a stock action seem like it was custom built, smooth as smooth can be, makes the barrel shine doesnt bother action trigger etc and it inhibits rust without any color changes. good stuff hard to find. clean and lubricates all in one.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/27/2007 at 23:42
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Outers Bore foam has worked really well for me. I just started using it a few months ago and have been really pleases. You can see it getting the copper  when it turns blue
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/29/2007 at 11:34
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I use a half and half mixture of Shooters Choice and Kroil.  The SC is a great, not overly agressive solvent, and the Kroil penetrates the pores of the steel and gets underneath fouling to help the SC do its job.  It seems since I switched to this concoction (which I mix up in some small plastic squirt bottles for control), my barrels seem to clean up much easier.  I also use Wipe Out occasionally when I feel guilty about waiting too long between cleanings.

 

For external gun surfaces and general lubrication, I use Break Free CLP, except in my bores.  After handling a rifle, I'll generally wipe it with a RIG rag before putting it back in the safe.  I've heard from many knowledgeable folks that it's a bad idea to use a Teflon-based product like CLP in the bore (which would also include products like Rem Oil), because the heat from firing will liberate flourine from the Teflon, which supposedly attacks some barrel steels, gradually causing pitting.  I can't prove or disprove that claim, but there are so many Teflon-free products available that I don't take chances in the bore -- again, I do use CLP on everything else.  For a bore preservative, I use a product called TM Oil, which is available from Sinclair Int'l.

 

It's also a good idea to occasionally grease your locking lug surfaces and the cocking cam on your bolt.  For that, I use TM Grease, but most any grease will probably work fine.  Just don't apply too much; the intent is to prevent galling, but too much grease will attract grit that will then act like an abrasive compound.

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