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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2008 at 21:14
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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I'm finally done building my bench! I don't reload yet - and in fact I don't even have a gun lol :P. But when I get one I'll be ready!

I'm real happy with the way it turned out. It's extremely solid as it's anchored to the concrete wall and concrete floor. The worksurface is comprised of 4 layers of 3/4 inch plywood. the bottom layer is pine, and the next three layers are oak.

Anyway, I know how everyone likes pictures, so I put up a bucn that essentially document the entire project!

Let me know what you guys think!

























Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2008 at 21:47
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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oh i forgot to mention - it's 8 ft. long and 3 ft. deep...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2008 at 23:05
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Unless a tornado comes through, I don't think that's going anywhere. Nice job. Build some shelving above the bench and your set.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2008 at 23:13
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Roy Finn Roy Finn wrote:

Unless a tornado comes through, I don't think that's going anywhere...
 

Roy


lol that's what i'm thinking
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2008 at 23:30
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If you ever loaded off of a bench that wasn't solid, you might not appreciate the extra strength you have there. Nothing wrong with overbuilt on a reloading bench. Enjoy it.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 05:41
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Well done!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 07:35
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Now thats the way a MANS basement is suppose to start life like.  I tip my my hat to ya Jeff. You Sir have your priorities right!!!!   Thunbs%20Up
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 08:27
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Roy Finn Roy Finn wrote:

If you ever loaded off of a bench that wasn't solid, you might not appreciate the extra strength you have there. Nothing wrong with overbuilt on a reloading bench. Enjoy it.
 

Roy


most definitely. i was on youtube a while ago looking up videos on reloading. i found a nice series with some very good information and demonstrations. however, whenever the guy worked his press, the bench he was using would visibly flex. i just cringed everytime this happend!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 08:41
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Steelbenz Steelbenz wrote:

Now thats the way a MANS basement is suppose to start life like.  I tip my my hat to ya Jeff. You Sir have your priorities right!!!!   Thunbs%20Up


agree 100%! :)
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 11:52
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You want to come build me a bench?  Great job! Thunbs%20Up
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 13:01
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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Originally posted by helo18 helo18 wrote:

You want to come build me a bench?...


i'd take any excuse to come to montana ;)
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 16:18
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i should take pictures of my bench its an 8x8 1/2" steel bench took a skid steer to get it into our shop, not mobile for sure but plenty of room
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 16:23
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Building the bench is alot like reloading, they are both more fun and gratifying doing it yourself.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 16:51
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Originally posted by Jeff H. Jeff H. wrote:

Originally posted by Steelbenz Steelbenz wrote:

Now thats the way a MANS basement is suppose to start life like.  I tip my my hat to ya Jeff. You Sir have your priorities right!!!!   Thunbs%20Up


agree 100%! :)
 
  Me too!  Excellent
   BTW, you will need to seal or better yet, lumberband the edges of the plywood, and seal the top surface really well.  Oak plywood is very susceptible to moisture damage, even moreso than the softwoods. Personally, I would have used a countertop grade Formica over MDF or HDF, but I'm not being critical.  You have a GREAT bench, just be sure to protect it with several coats of Polyurethane or even a clear epoxy. I would stain it first though. Unstained oak ply looks bland at best.


Edited by RONK - May/24/2008 at 16:52
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 17:01
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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Originally posted by pyro6999 pyro6999 wrote:

i should take pictures of my bench its an 8x8 1/2" steel bench took a skid steer to get it into our shop, not mobile for sure but plenty of room


yeah i'd like to see it! i bet it's pretty solid :)
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 17:02
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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Originally posted by lucytuma lucytuma wrote:

Building the bench is alot like reloading, they are both more fun and gratifying doing it yourself.



i agree - building that bench was a lot of fun for sure.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 17:05
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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Originally posted by RONK RONK wrote:

BTW, you will need to seal or better yet, lumberband the edges of the plywood, and seal the top surface really well.  Oak plywood is very susceptible to moisture damage, even moreso than the softwoods. Personally, I would have used a countertop grade Formica over MDF or HDF, but I'm not being critical.  You have a GREAT bench, just be sure to protect it with several coats of Polyurethane or even a clear epoxy. I would stain it first though. Unstained oak ply looks bland at best.


i appreciate that advice - thank you for that! i was contemplating as to how to finish it off. i did buy some polyurethane but i wasn't sure how critical it was that i put it on. i'll definitely give it a good shot of that for protection!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 19:40
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 The trick to applying poly is to mix it thoroughly in the can to bring the solids up from the bottom and get them back into suspension. Don't whip bubbles into it, just stir gently. Warm it and the project wood to at least 70 F. Sand the wood with the grain to 150 grit, no real need to go finer on oak, especially on a workbench.  Get the wood and your work area as dust-free as possible. Close it off to insect life, but try to have good ventilation and airflow. Use a 3 or 4-inch FOAM brush to apply it, brushing the width of a brush  from one end to the other, without overworking it or putting it on in too thick a coat; better to miss a spot than to get it too thick. Start at the back edge first, with the grain, final stroke from one end to the other. Work toward you a brush width at a time. Don't let the brush get gummy, throw it away and use a new one if it does get sticky on you.

 Let it cure at least 12 hours before applying subsequent coats, longer in humid weather, and wet-sand lightly with 600 grit silicon carbide abrasive paper between coats for good adhesion of one coat to the next. Don't wet-sand the final coat unless it is too glossy for your taste. 4 coats should give you pretty good fill, two might be enough if you stain it first with a grain-filling type of stain. The open pores of oak are hard to fill in two coats of poly.
 Get enough foam brushes and discard them frequently if you need to, they are cheap.
 Good luck!
 
edited to add:
 I wouldn't recommend a water-based poly on oak; it raises the grain too much. It is easier to clean up, and less obnoxious to breathe, but you'll need to do a lot more sanding between coats.    Use a solvent-based product.  I like Minwax brand.
 You can apply gloss poly over a dry coat of satin (flat) poly and vice-versa, no problems. Only that which you use the final coat is what will determine the degree of glossiness.


Edited by RONK - May/24/2008 at 19:51
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 22:50
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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Originally posted by RONK RONK wrote:

 The trick to applying poly is to mix it thoroughly in the can to bring the solids up from the bottom and get them back into suspension. Don't whip bubbles into it, just stir gently. Warm it and the project wood to at least 70 F. Sand the wood with the grain to 150 grit, no real need to go finer on oak, especially on a workbench.  Get the wood and your work area as dust-free as possible. Close it off to insect life, but try to have good ventilation and airflow. Use a 3 or 4-inch FOAM brush to apply it, brushing the width of a brush  from one end to the other, without overworking it or putting it on in too thick a coat; better to miss a spot than to get it too thick. Start at the back edge first, with the grain, final stroke from one end to the other. Work toward you a brush width at a time. Don't let the brush get gummy, throw it away and use a new one if it does get sticky on you.


 Let it cure at least 12 hours before applying subsequent coats, longer in humid weather, and wet-sand lightly with 600 grit silicon carbide abrasive paper between coats for good adhesion of one coat to the next. Don't wet-sand the final coat unless it is too glossy for your taste. 4 coats should give you pretty good fill, two might be enough if you stain it first with a grain-filling type of stain. The open pores of oak are hard to fill in two coats of poly.

 Get enough foam brushes and discard them frequently if you need to, they are cheap.

 Good luck!

 

edited to add:

 I wouldn't recommend a water-based poly on oak; it raises the grain too much. It is easier to clean up, and less obnoxious to breathe, but you'll need to do a lot more sanding between coats.    Use a solvent-based product.  I like Minwax brand.

 You can apply gloss poly over a dry coat of satin (flat) poly and vice-versa, no problems. Only that which you use the final coat is what will determine the degree of glossiness.


thank you for all that! i had never heard of the 600 grit silicon carbide paper. i'll pick some of that up tomorrow. it just so happend that minwax is the brand that i bought lol.

well i know what i'll be doing tomorrow. i'll put a picuture up when it's been polyurethaned!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2008 at 12:02
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 If you have trouble finding the 600 paper, any auto-body shop would probably have a few pieces to lend you...
 Good luck and post pics when it's done!
  Be sure you have a hard cure before you wet sand. It doesnt take much sanding either, just scuff it lightly and pick out the bugs!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2008 at 13:42
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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Originally posted by RONK RONK wrote:

 If you have trouble finding the 600 paper, any auto-body shop would probably have a few pieces to lend you...
 Good luck and post pics when it's done!

  Be sure you have a hard cure before you wet sand. It doesnt take much sanding either, just scuff it lightly and pick out the bugs!


ok i picked up the items you mentioned and put the first coat on. it looks really good! thanks again for all your help on that. i'll put a few more coats on over the next several days then put the pics up!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2008 at 19:35
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 Great!  Thunbs%20Up

 Just don't sleep in the same room or anything while it cures.  The fumes will give you headaches. A space heater blowing over it or an infrared lamp at a distance will speed up the cure a lot. Dont let it get over about 110 F. on the surface though, that will cause problems.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2008 at 03:22
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Your working area is far to neat for my liking!! When I do a job every tool I own somehow is needed at one point or the other and the place looks like a tornado hit it.
Only joking, looks really neat and makes me want to build one to.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2008 at 17:04
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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Originally posted by 8shots 8shots wrote:

Your working area is far to neat for my liking!! When I do a job every tool I own somehow is needed at one point or the other and the place looks like a tornado hit it.
Only joking, looks really neat and makes me want to build one to.


thank you!

p.s. in all honesty, there were times during the project where it looked like a tornado/hurricane blew threw :P
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2008 at 17:07
Jeff H. View Drop Down
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Originally posted by RONK RONK wrote:

 Great!  Thunbs%20Up


 Just don't sleep in the same room or anything while it cures.  The fumes will give you headaches. A space heater blowing over it or an infrared lamp at a distance will speed up the cure a lot. Dont let it get over about 110 F. on the surface though, that will cause problems.


yeah i try to limit my time in the area of the bench. i just give it a coat then get out lol.

p.s. i put the third coat on today and it's finally statring to have an even appearance. i'll put at least one more coat on. it's coming out better than i expected!
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