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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 07:27
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Has anyone ever tried products other than specifically sold as cartridge lubes for the same purpose, such as mobil 1 synthetic motor oil or other products.  Obviously, you would want to use it sparingly and not get it into the case, but a small amount would go a long way and is super slick.  Just curious.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 08:59
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STP works good, works alot like RCBS, lanolin--
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 09:20
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http://www.schaefferoil.com/specialty/190_Penetro.html
this works good too but you gotta clean your cases up after using it of course
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 09:45
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Good ideas.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 12:29
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 I have used Imperial sizing die wax for years, and have never thought that anything could possibly work better.  A small tin lasts forever, too. The nice thing about wax is that you don't really need to worry about primer or powder contamination quite as much as you might with petroleum- based lubes.  I also use it inside case necks when applicable, applied with a Q-tip.
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 14:17
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Originally posted by RONK RONK wrote:

 
 I have used Imperial sizing die wax for years, and have never thought that anything could possibly work better.  A small tin lasts forever, too. The nice thing about wax is that you don't really need to worry about primer or powder contamination quite as much as you might with petroleum- based lubes.  I also use it inside case necks when applicable, applied with a Q-tip.
 

I might try that inside the case neck.  I have had problems of pulling the expander thing out of the case after resizing.  I have been using graphite powder, but the stuff is messy, and it gets everywhere.  Plus I haven't really figured out a good way to powder the inside of the neck.  Maybe I will try a Q-tip.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 14:24
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usually i use a squirt of the stuff i linked into the die and wait a few min and then just use rcbs case lube-2 on a lube pad
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 16:10
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Originally posted by RONK RONK wrote:

 
 I have used Imperial sizing die wax for years, and have never thought that anything could possibly work better.  A small tin lasts forever, too. The nice thing about wax is that you don't really need to worry about primer or powder contamination quite as much as you might with petroleum- based lubes.  I also use it inside case necks when applicable, applied with a Q-tip.
 
I bought a ACSF Willis resizing die for belted magnums, that resizes just above the belt for prolonged case reloads and he recommeded Imperial sizing die wax, stating that all experienced reloaders use it.  Interesting.  Good tip.  Anything out there like it that is not sold specifically for reloading purposes.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 16:11
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I guess when ever you write the name ACSF, it gets turned into ACSF.  What does that mean?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 16:59
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Originally posted by Dolphin Dolphin wrote:

I guess when ever you write the name ACSF, it gets turned into ACSF.  What does that mean?

I think there is a hidden meaning behind that.  Not sure what it mean, though.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 17:03
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Originally posted by ckk1106 ckk1106 wrote:

Originally posted by RONK RONK wrote:

 
 I have used Imperial sizing die wax for years, and have never thought that anything could possibly work better.  A small tin lasts forever, too. The nice thing about wax is that you don't really need to worry about primer or powder contamination quite as much as you might with petroleum- based lubes.  I also use it inside case necks when applicable, applied with a Q-tip.
 

I might try that inside the case neck.  I have had problems of pulling the expander thing out of the case after resizing.  I have been using graphite powder, but the stuff is messy, and it gets everywhere.  Plus I haven't really figured out a good way to powder the inside of the neck.  Maybe I will try a Q-tip.
 You should also take a good look at the expanding ball itself.  I've seen a few that were rough.  Remove the spindle from the die.  Chuck it in a drill press and polish it above, below and at center with 600, 800 up to 1500 grit Silicon carbide abrasive paper and polish it to a shine with a Dremel tool with a felt wheel and a polishing compound of some sort, until it shines brightly.  Try not to diminish the diameter excessively. but you will be reducing it a tiny bit; no matter.  It will pull through much easier after that treatment, but you still need to lube, of course.


Edited by RONK - March/02/2008 at 17:08
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 17:27
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I will try that Ron.  There have been a couple of times that I forgot to brush the neck and use the graphite, and had gotten it stuck.  Stuck to the point that I wasn't sure I was going to be able to get it free.  After messing with it for a while it freed up.  I will definitely look at the expander ball and sand it down like you suggested.  Thanks.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 18:30
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Or get rid of the expander ball all togther. Wink 
I haven't used one in years. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 18:39
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Originally posted by cheaptrick cheaptrick wrote:

Or get rid of the expander ball all togther. Wink 
I haven't used one in years. 

You don't have problems, when seating the bullet, with the mouth of the case trimming some of the copper off the bullet?  Does that make sense?  I've never used a boat tail bullet, but a few times I have noticed that I have to push a little more on some than others initially to seat the bullet.  Then a notice a little of the copper, I think, around the case mouth.  Some go in easy and some a little harder.  I think that I might not have... hmm.. used the deburring tool enough on the inside of the mouth of the case.  Not sure of all the technical terms.


Edited by ckk1106 - March/02/2008 at 18:39
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 18:49
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i end up with a bit of copper off my bullets as well after seating.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 18:52
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might try that inside the case neck.  I have had problems of pulling the expander thing out of the case after resizing.  I have been using graphite powder, but the stuff is messy, and it gets everywhere.  Plus I haven't really figured out a good way to powder the inside of the neck.  Maybe I will try a Q-tip.
place the graphite in an old imperial lube tin (or similar), with about 1/2 oz. of #8 or 9 shot, then dip the mouths in , and as you pull them out both sides will be powdered and the excess graphite will be knocked out by the lead shot.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 18:59
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Originally posted by Dale Clifford Dale Clifford wrote:

might try that inside the case neck.  I have had problems of pulling the expander thing out of the case after resizing.  I have been using graphite powder, but the stuff is messy, and it gets everywhere.  Plus I haven't really figured out a good way to powder the inside of the neck.  Maybe I will try a Q-tip.
place the graphite in an old imperial lube tin (or similar), with about 1/2 oz. of #8 or 9 shot, then dip the mouths in , and as you pull them out both sides will be powdered and the excess graphite will be knocked out by the lead shot.

Good idea.  Where did you learn all this stuff? 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 19:01
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Originally posted by cheaptrick cheaptrick wrote:

Or get rid of the expander ball all togther. Wink 
I haven't used one in years. 
 
I should have mentioned that obvious option as well.  Thanks, Mark! 
  Of course, that won't work if you are necking up your brass to a larger caliber.  (.30.06 to .35 Whelen, etc.)
 You may also need to use an alternate decapping method, depending on whether you can remove the expanding ball and still retain the decapping pin/spindle.
 ( I don't know of any that allow you to do that, but I don't know everything, either!)
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 19:04
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Originally posted by pyro6999 pyro6999 wrote:

i end up with a bit of copper off my bullets as well after seating.
 
 Do you chamfer the inside of the case mouth?
 If you do, and that still occurs, you may want to try a VLD chamferring tool. It cuts a much steeper angle and makes a big difference in seating ease with some bullets.  I think Lyman makes them.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 19:14
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Originally posted by RONK RONK wrote:

Originally posted by pyro6999 pyro6999 wrote:

i end up with a bit of copper off my bullets as well after seating.
 
 Do you chamfer the inside of the case mouth?
 If you do, and that still occurs, you may want to try a VLD chamferring tool. It cuts a much steeper angle and makes a big difference in seating ease with some bullets.  I think Lyman makes them.

Chamferring tool?  I think that is what I'm using.  It said deburring tool, I think, on the box.  I used very little pressure.  I don't even think it did anything, cause I was afraid to trim too much off, and make the mouth sharp.  I figured it was just used to take any burr's off after trimming.  I guess if I scraped it a little more, it would open the mouth up more and not take off so much copper off the bullet. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 19:44
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yes i debur and chamfer both but it still happends, i will have to look into a vld thanks for the tip
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/02/2008 at 22:05
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Tri-Flow works.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/03/2008 at 03:55
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I use a K&M Mandrel (Case Neck Expander) for new cases or if I need to expand the case neck for any reason.
I had a bad time with expander buttons leaving me with excessive run out. Got tired of fighting them.
 
If I have to FLS a spent case, I use a  Lee Decapping Die and a RCBS FL die with no spindle or expander button. Little more work, but this system saves my case mouth from getting tore up. 
 
The K&M Chamfer tool kicks ass too!! I highly recommend it.
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/03/2008 at 07:41
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I use the Lyman deburring and chamfer tool that is rechargeable and it is great also.  Comes with a lot of different size mandrels.  I will have to try the Q tip thing.  Although I have only had one problem with getting the thingy stuck and it was with a Hornady die set.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/03/2008 at 07:45
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After I size, trim, debur chamfer (sp) I thro them back in the tumbler for about an hours or so to get the oil off. Plus it makes them shiny again with no finger prints.I use latex gloves when useing powder so no prints are on the cases. They may not shoot but boy do they look good. lmao
 
 
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