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Burris Ballistic Plex

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2006 at 14:57
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I recently bought a Burris Fullfield ll 4.5-14X42 with Ballistic Plex for my Remington 700VS in .22-250 and there are no trajactory charts in the box for .22-250, just .204 .223, and .243.  I was looking at the Burris site and they show a trajactory chart for .22-250 for the Ballistic Mildot models and I was wondering if the first 3 hash marks are the same on the Ballistic Plex as the Ballistic Mildot?  I am using 55grain Ballistic Silvertips as they have the chart set up for at 14x (the power level used for the chart on the Ballistic Mildot) so I should be able to use my Ballistic Plex the same way right?  Sorry for it being a little confusing, but I don't know how else to word it.  Heres the link with the trajactory charts for the Ballistic Mildot.
Thanks for the help.

Patrick
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2006 at 12:44
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The hash marks are in different places in BPlex reticle vs BMDot reticle.  Also, BMDot has one more hashmark than BPlex.   The only holdover marks that match closely are the second from the top mark of BPlex (-4.51" at 100 yards) and third from the top mark of BMDot (-4.58" at 100 yards). 

 

If you can find the information on the load, I can help you put together a more detailed spreadsheet for the holdover with BPlex, but here are some rough details based on the information from WInchester's website:

 

With a 200yard zero, the first hashmark will give you a POI of 0.5" low at 300 yards, the second hashmark will be in the ballpark at ~425 yards, and the third hasmark will be pretty close at ~525yards.

 

BMDot labels ar calculated with a 100 yard zero, but WInchester's website does not have a whole lot of trajectory information with 100 yard zero.  I'll reverse engineer the BMDot label and post an update a little later today.

 

I can't really give you more detail without more information on the trajectory of the Winchester's load.

 

ILya



Edited by koshkin
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2006 at 13:11
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All right, for a 100 yard zero, your first hashmark will work at ~260 yards, second hashmark at ~400 yards, third hashmark at ~500 yards, and the top of the bottom post will work at ~620yards.

 

Beyond that I'd need a more thorough calculation with ballistic software of some sort.

 

ILya

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2006 at 20:14
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Thank you very much for the great help.  It was more then I expected.  I'm only 17 and limited on $$$ so I can't afford to shoot the .22-250 often and didn't want to waste many bullets trying to find out where to aim at longer ranges.  Your help should get me in the ballpark and save me some cash!  If it's not to much trouble could you tell me about what it would be if I was using Winchester 45 grain USA Hollow Points since they are less then half the price of the Ballistic Silvertips?  They shoot really well in my 700 so i'll probably go through quite a few of those untill I get a job this June.  I gotta try the 50 grain Ballistic Silvertips too.  Why do they gotta be so expensive! lol.  Again thank you very much for your help.


Edited by SharpShooter
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2006 at 22:38
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Welcome to OT, Patrick.

As for the 45 grain load, once again these are ballpark numbers without pushing it through ballistic software.  All this is subject to change depending on where you shoot, ambient temperature, the particular rifle, etc.

with 200 yard zero first hashmark will be within an inch at 300 yards, 2nd hashmark within an inch at 400 yards and third hashmark should be in the ballpark at ~480yards.

with a 100 yard zero there is not much information at the website, but I see no reason to sight this load in at 100 yards anyway.  It's a pretty flat-shooting cartridge.

I hope this helps.

ILya
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2006 at 16:06
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Thank you very much for all of your help.  I really appreciate it.  Now I just have to get the reticle level with the bore.  Last time I took it out and was shooting the 45 grains with a 100 yard zero I was hitting about 8-9 inches low and about 8 inches to the right at ~360 yards.  There was close to no wind so I know the scope is a little off.  I'm going to order this Anti-Cant Device and maybe these  crosshair levels and see  what happens.  I really only need one level for inside the action then i'm going to hang some plumb wire at 100 yards and line the crosshairs up (some advice i picked up at 24hourcampfire.com).  Or an idea I had was to use a laser boresighter  and line the bottom post of the reticle up with the dot if that would work?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2006 at 16:23
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Just hang a plumb and line up the vertical on it.  But I don't believe you have a cant problem.  To be 8 inches low and 8 inches right means a cant of 45 degrees.  Not even a blind man would be that far off.  Keep looking.

Edited by bill47
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2006 at 16:57
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I'm sure the wind effected a few inches of it but the scope has to be off enough to put it at least 4-5 inches to the right.  I've only shot past 150 yards (as far as my range goes) one time and it was only a few shots so I had an idea of where to aim if I saw a groundhog or something.  I'll go back out sometime in the next week or so when I get the chance and see what happens.  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/04/2006 at 09:38
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SharpShooter,

Go to the Winchester web site and search "Winshoot" download the program and run the balistics for a 22-250 with any factory winchester load they make. That will give you a lot of knowledge about your weapons bullet drop at known ranges. Then you can apply the info Koshkin gave you.  If you don't know were in the balistic path of the bullet your targets at, knowing the balisticplex gradent doesn't help you much.



Edited by Steelbenz
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/06/2006 at 11:50
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The best anticanting device is $129 and has a small red and green light, battery operated,  with a mercury switch (besides on and off) measures .5 deg cant, most bubbles are lucky to get 2 deg. Any ways they are not necessary under 600 yds. Sorry name slips my mind. Your gun and the caliber is accurate enugh to require that you chrono the loads even if factory. Any work up will be approx. and will give some "funny" results. ex. The reticle is at least 1/4 Moa and the dots about 1/2 MOA. Thus sometimes a group will have a higher s.d. group size then some will damn near be the same hole (example of errors cancelling) It is much easier to work at 100 yds. even for long shots when just finding out about the gun. Determine the parabola of the load you are using. Determine it's height at 100yds. ex. at 300 yds the loads shoots 18 inches high. Determine the number of "clicks" to get it there. (in your case the difference between the impact of the bullet and the tick in your scope for that distance). Do this procedure for each range. Note(100yds is only selected because that is what "official ranges" are. The best range to use would be the range at which the bullet is most stable. Some bullets don't stabalize until 135 yds or further usually longer bullets in a series require more distance). Fortunetly the 22-250 is one of the least finicky.   It is highly unlikely that the ballistic plex will be right on (or Leo's varmit reticle), finding a load and correct distance impact would be a stroke of luck, and usually why the mil-dot system is preferred. In your favor- ammunition manufacturers some time get together with scope makers.  Mil-dot technique doesn't really advocate hold over although it is possible and is used a lot especially if a second fast shot is needed on a target that is in about the same place. As koshkin pointed out Mildot are equally spaced and ballistic plex are progressive to account for the log decay in the ballistic curve (rather than quadratic). Some of the new laser rangefinders will read back the actual ballistic distance, MOA, or inches of hold over, just dial it in and bingo.
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