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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/25/2009 at 23:15
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What are some of the best tools for boresighting?  Is the LaserLyte Universal Bore Sighter any good? Thanks.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/26/2009 at 08:54
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I use the old type bore sighter with individual arbors for each caliber.  While there are new and improved methods of doing this, it's what I have and use.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/26/2009 at 09:08
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I use the "El-cheapo" method where I position the rifle in a solid rest facing downrange.  I remove the bolt and then adjust the rifle to where the center of the bore is directly on the corner of the target (center mass can work too).  I then adjust the crosshairs to the corner of the target and verify that the center of the bore is still on target.  I then chamber a round and shoot.  That way has yet to fail me, although some like to do it differently I understand.
 
Semper Fi, I was in Ramadi about the same time you joined the site.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/26/2009 at 09:16
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Forgot to mention about leveling the reticle.  You can use feeler gauges like in this link: http://www.snipershide.com/level  Or you can use a couple of bubble levels from Lowes like I do and set them on the rifle (scope mount and rings) to make sure that it is sitting level, then on the top of the scope's turret to make sure that is level before tightening it down.  Cost runs about $3-5.  Might not be super extreme exact, but closer than 99% can tell while they are shooting.
 
I've lost trust in boresight collimators after seeing several guys go out to the range freshly "boresighted" only to have to help them move their reticle 12" to get on paper at 100yds.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/26/2009 at 09:18
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Originally posted by diggler1833 diggler1833 wrote:

I use the "El-cheapo" method where I position the rifle in a solid rest facing downrange.  I remove the bolt and then adjust the rifle to where the center of the bore is directly on the corner of the target (center mass can work too).  I then adjust the crosshairs to the corner of the target and verify that the center of the bore is still on target.  I then chamber a round and shoot.  That way has yet to fail me, although some like to do it differently I understand.
 
This method works just fine when done carefully.
 No extra stuff to buy, carry around and lose.
 No worries about possibly damaging the rifling with an arbor, or firing the rifle with the arbor still in the bore, blowing up the barrel and injuring the shooter. (Happens now and then.)
 Of all the things on my shooting wish list, a boresighting tool isn't near the top of the list. Nor the middle. Nor the bottom.
 Lots of guys use and like them though, so it's always a good topic for a friendly argument!
 
 Edited to add: It doesn't work well with pumps, leverguns and autoloaders. You need to be able to peer through the bore from the rear.


Edited by RONK - December/26/2009 at 09:21
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/26/2009 at 10:47
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The Leupold Magnetic sight in tool works very well. It is very small, Light, and only one piece. This makes it very easy to check the center if something bad happens on a hunt that could disturb the scopes alignment. I have changed scopes in the field and been within 1/2" of the removed scope after mounting the new scope. This tool rates up  near sliced bread with its functionality
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/26/2009 at 10:58
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You are right, it doesnt work with pumps or levers. (depends on the autoloader).  I use another el-cheapo method for that one.  Take a buddy and about 2-3 clay targets and set them up at 25 and 100yds.  Have the buddy spot for you at 25 until you hit the bird.  Chances are you will be a couple of inches high now at 100.  repeat the process at 100, then move to paper.  Saves ammo and time that way.
 
Honestly if your scope adjustments are working correctly and move the crosshairs the correct distance that they should be you should only need 2, maybe 3 shots at 25 and another 2 at 100yds.  Still cheaper than the collimator unless you are shooting a .700NE.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/26/2009 at 11:53
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Originally posted by 3_tens 3_tens wrote:

The Leupold Magnetic sight in tool works very well. It is very small, Light, and only one piece. This makes it very easy to check the center if something bad happens on a hunt that could disturb the scopes alignment. I have changed scopes in the field and been within 1/2" of the removed scope after mounting the new scope. This tool rates up  near sliced bread with its functionality


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/26/2009 at 12:22
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Originally posted by diggler1833 diggler1833 wrote:

I use the "El-cheapo" method where I position the rifle in a solid rest facing downrange.  I remove the bolt and then adjust the rifle to where the center of the bore is directly on the corner of the target (center mass can work too).  I then adjust the crosshairs to the corner of the target and verify that the center of the bore is still on target.  I then chamber a round and shoot.  That way has yet to fail me, although some like to do it differently I understand.
 
Semper Fi, I was in Ramadi about the same time you joined the site.
 
Yeah, I just sighted in a SS variable a few hours ago doing this.
Looked through the bore at a target @ 25 yds, shot a "spotter" then went out to obtain a 100 yrd zero. Took a total of 4 rounds.
 
You can do AR uppers with this procedure too, you know.   Big Grin 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/26/2009 at 13:22
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I use digglers method, but have to wait until later to fire since I boresight through a plate glass window at the peak of my neighbor's garage roof 50 yards away. It works just fine. For a rifle where you can't see through the bore, it's hard not to get on paper at 25 yards and just work from there.

Forgot to mention that I've also used the feeler gauge method to mount a scope. This really only works if you have a flat base and a flat bottom on the scope, as well as a reticle that is true to the scope base. In other words, all the components really need to be precision-made...but then why bother with anything else? I also used the feeler gauges when tightening the scope rings. That really helped get them even. However, you still need to follow the scope/ring manufacturers' torque specs and slow down towards the end to check both sides. Even the slightest turn on one side will lift the other side a bit.


Edited by jonoMT - December/26/2009 at 13:26
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/26/2009 at 14:39
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I have the Leupold unit and use it a TON, but rarely for "boresighting."  A collimator with a grid is an irreplaceable tool for testing about a dozen different parameters on scopes that are very important if you ever do anything difficult with the scopes.  It'll easily pay for itself in ammo you won't waste when you find problems with scopes (and you will unless you only buy the very top of the line stuff).  Problems that will have you confused and frustrated wasting ammo at the range are easily identifiable and measurable without firing a single shot.

The magnetic ones like the Leupold aren't really that useful for boresighting a new rifle for the first time.  It'll only be as accurate as your crown is straight which is rarely perfect even with match barrels.  Where I do find it useful is for swapping scopes after you have one sighted in.  I'm always swapping scopes around so I do find that convenient--simply note where it is on the grid, remove scope, install new scope and click it to the same spot.  This typically puts me within 1" at 100 yds.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/26/2009 at 16:47
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Interesting that a collimator can be used for all those things. Then, I'm one of those "This is my rifle. There are many like it, but this one is mine." guys so once I get a good one, I just leave it alone.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/29/2009 at 16:35
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You don't need to be a scope swappin' fool like me to get good use from it.  When you "get a good one," how exactly do you know it's a "good one?"  It helps answer those questions quickly, easily and accurately.

I guess it's the Perfectionist/Control Freak in me.      Wink     

If the scope's click value is off slightly, I want to know and I want to know by exactly how much so I can compensate if I keep the scope. 

If much of the available travel in the scope is "dead clicks" at the top, I want to know about it. 

If the reticle has a square adjustment range or not, it's nice to know. 

If the reticle doesn't return to zero precisely every time, no sense in mounting it on a rifle and wasting a bunch of ammo to find that out. 

If the reticle doesn't move smoothly and proportionally with the turrets, I want to know about it.

If the reticle is canted with respect to the turrets, I want to know about it. 

If the reticle is not calibrated correctly, I want to know about it. 

If the reticle changes POI with power changes (SFP scopes) I want to know about it. 

If the reticle moves with the parallax knob, I want to know about it. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/30/2009 at 18:05
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I thought I was the ONLY one who swapped scopes around almost every day...
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