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Benelli SBE 1 issue

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/06/2014 at 09:52
mil169 View Drop Down
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I have a Benelli SBE 1 that I bought used 3 or 4 years ago. The gun was all but new old stock, the previous owner said it had about 25 rounds through it and it looked like that was the case. It cycled fine the first year or so with the duck and goose loadsI shot through it, but it has definitely developed a tendancy to stovepipe over the last few years. It showed that again yesterday making it a really expensive single shot.
 
I've heard of this before and know there are replacement recoil springs available, but I don't know if a Wolff 25% increase spring will help. I would go that way if ejection wasn't the issue and loading the second shell and keeping the bolt in battery were. I also found the Sure Cycle system for Benelli's, but at $160 I want to make sure that will be a cure.
 
I haven't been able to locate any definitive solutions, does anyone here have any similiar experiences with there SBE's or M1's/M2's?
 
I'm shooting Blind Side 3" #3's and 3" BB's for loads. I don't know what the FPS rating on them are, but I would think that any game load should be more than enough to keep the thing cycling.
 
Thanks
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/06/2014 at 10:34
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I have worked on a few that has done the same thing, check thi recoil reducer. They come apart sometimes.


Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/06/2014 at 10:35
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I was looking at the SBE about 5 years ago. In the earlier version they had problems with low brass loads.  It was recommended that not to shoot low brass or 2 3/4 loads. For this reason I decided against the SBE.  The SBE II has a changes But it is still having issues. Here is a response from Benelli.

Benelli Cust Service - SBE II Jams - Response

Well, a while back many were concerned about their SBE II's jamming at different times. I wrote to say I had the same issues and was going to contact Benelli and send it back for warranty check.


My 'jams' included not loading up a new round, in some cases, kicking a live round out after the first shell was shot...and stove piping of a shell.

So, I sent it in after an easy phone call and getting their authorization. The gun retuned with a complete invoice on what they did:

They replaced the Recoil spring inside the recoil tube - which is inside the stock and they replaced the ejector spring as well.

Then, they adjusted the Ejector and the safety and the forend...and completely cleaned the gun.


The forend adjustment is to make it easier to remove and put back on. From the factory it does not come off easily and they do this adjustment on all guns they work on so it can be removed easier.


They test fired the gun with 2 3/4 inch, 3 inch and 3 1/2 inch shells (Kent, Remington and Federals). I had told them I shot Kents and Remingtons.

They also told me the most important thing for the future is to oil the Recoil Sprig assembly. The recoil spring sits inside a tube...and on top of the spring is the silver plunger. You should not ever try to remove the spring, but do need to clean and oil it well to work.

The way to clean Recoil Assembly:

1. Take the gel pad off and take barrel off.
2. Use 13 mm socket with extension to remove the nut.
3. On the other side of the nut is a lock washer and shim, lock plate. Be sure to note how the shims are installed so you can put it back together as you found it.
4. Then you will have the tube (with spring and plunger inside)
5. Liberally use Gun Scrubber to spray inside the tube - Hold the plunger down 1/2 half way and get scrubber inside. Work plunger up and down a bit.
6. The bottom of the recoil tube has a small drain hole. Continue to spray gun scrubber inside the tube until you see the drain has clearer oil coming out. If black, it is not clean yet.
7. Then, place Break free oil or Rem Oil inside the tube and wait until you see a small bit drain out of drain hole. You want the tube to be oiled well.
8. Replace all parts AS THEY WERE....and clean the rest of the gun, barrel, bolt, trigger assembly etc - and good to go.

The recoil tube assembly does not need to be done each time but should be done once in a while to keep the spring clean and oiled.


Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/06/2014 at 11:41
mil169 View Drop Down
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Well, I guess I'll start with disassembling the stock and look at the recoil reducer, I'm not sure it has one, I thought that was an accessory. But I could be wrong. Then I'll clean and relube the spring, and see what she does.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/06/2014 at 13:51
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hmmm... thought Benelli's didn't have jam issues.....   which is why all the police units used them.  is this simply a maint. issue.. or lack there of?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/06/2014 at 15:10
mil169 View Drop Down
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I think any semi auto can be sucseptible to jam issues. To my knowledge, I think most police units still use the Rem 870, at least that's what I use and the most common around here.
No it's not a lack of maintanence issue. I clean it to the best of my ability regularily during hunting season. Not that there couldn't be a lack of knowledge issue, which is why I'm asking all of you.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/06/2014 at 15:56
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what part of the state ya from?   My son will be graduating this spring, was thinking about getting him a shotgun...  he likes the Rem Versa Max Sportsman... but I was thinking SBE.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/06/2014 at 15:58
mil169 View Drop Down
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I'm up in the northeast corner.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/06/2014 at 16:36
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The versa max is a great shotgun, will cycle 3/4 oz loads, (yes that is 3/4oz) loads. Have the tacticool model, for 3 gun, and used the m2 for that also.

also, a Legacy and Super Sport in 20 ga. , stoeger and the original recoil operated, beretta 2000.

you can take the end of the bolt carrier recoil spring off, (sometimes) and clean them or try reduced springs. Next thing, and Take this with a grain of salt, some aren't up to experimenting, but the recoil spring is best tuned to the load you want to use. I use the SS 20 for skeet, 5-stand and sport, so I want it to cycle as fast as possible. Most inertials I've had will be slower and short stroke when going from a left to right target because the shoulder is moving with the shot and no support. either train yourself to hold the gun, until the cycling is finished, or

Disclaimer: do this or don't at your own risk-please spare me the bullsh*t of gunsmith only etc etc.

remove the bolt unlocking spring and thin the spring with a file or on a grinder if your good,-- do this only if you want to use lower power shells in a standard gun, it doesn't take much all you are doing is helping the spring to "set" sooner, which Benelli recommends a bunch of high recoil stuff to do the setting at the same time reduce the length of the main tube return spring about 2-3 coils at a time until it cycles. Bennelli uses mercury or heavy recoil reducers to increase the mass (resistance) of the gun to the operating recoil.( The SS 20 only weighs 6 lbs and I don't want to increase the wt.) One of the nicest features of the benelli is that the faster cycle rate coincides with the disconnector trigger release a little better than other autos out there, especially 1100's and almost as fast on the second shot as an O/U which doesn't have to wait for the gun to cycle.

If the Versmax came in 20 or was considerably lighter ----------

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/06/2014 at 16:56
Tip69 View Drop Down
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Originally posted by mil169 mil169 wrote:

I'm up in the northeast corner.
 
anywhere near Walthill?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/07/2014 at 15:17
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Been shooting my SBE for waterfowl and turkeys nearly twenty years with not one problem. Could it be ammo related?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/07/2014 at 15:35
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If you are using 3 1/4" or 3" Magnums Like in Duck Goose and Turkey loads there are seldom issues. If you are shooting lighter Dove loads then the cycling problems come into play. It would be hard to find a better Goose gun.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/07/2014 at 15:44
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I use a lot of 2 3/4 inch too, but they are high brass.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/07/2014 at 17:02
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I shoot both low and high 2 3/4" in my M2 Field.  Never had a problem, and I've had it for 10 years.  Best shotgun I've ever owned.  I should note, though, that I don't shoot it that much.  Only opening weekend of dove season, and maybe an invitation for late quail.  Duck hunting is too much work.  Good luck with yours, though, I'm going to keep an eye on this thread and see what works for you.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/13/2014 at 19:21
mil169 View Drop Down
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duplicate, oops Whacko 
 
 
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/13/2014 at 19:23
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I was able to look at my SBE on Friday, I wanted to try to figure it out before I hunted it on Sunday. I ordered the Wolff 25% increase spring from Midway for both my SBE and my dad's M2.
 
Disassembly was fairly simple. To make it easy I disassembled the barrel from the reciever and took the trigger group out. I then removed the recoil pad, and next the 13mm nut holding stock on. I had to use my propane torch to heat the end of the recoil tube and burn out the loctite but then the stud (using a 17mm wrench on the hex) came out easily. I dropped out the plunger and the tube was empty. It was very dirty inside, looked like shotgun barrel that needed cleaned horribly. I cleaned the tube with bore scrubber and a patch, and then a 20ga. swab. I cleaned the plunger and lubed with CLP and reinstalled it. I also lubed the new spring with CLP and installed it, using purple loctite on the threads of the stud. I went ahead and also disassembled the trigger group and cleaned it as well. While I was at it I decided to replace the hammer spring. Thanks YouTube.
 
I was only able to shoot it once on Sunday, but it cycled fine. There is definitely a differance between the factory and increase springs. The increase spring is for heavier loads, not a problem for me since I only shoot turkey, duck and goose loads out of it. I have a trap gun for anything light. It may not have needed the spring, maybe just a good cleaning, but I read enough about the problem to figure a spring wouldn't hurt. I wouldn't figure that going into the recoil tube is something Benelli would want you to do on a regular basis,since the stud was loctited, but maybe that was because they don't want it to loosen with vibration or something. Anyway, I will go into mine probably once a year to clean it and in an effort to insure reliable operation. Take it or leave my reasoning, I just hope it works. I really do like the gun and don't fancy shopping for a new field gun anytime soon.
 
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2sLNncEIvk- watch about the first 5 minutes
 
Here are the links I used, if you're interested.
 
Good luck to all who have fought the same problem.
 
 
 
 
 
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