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Barrel Reconditioning?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/23/2008 at 00:16
snowflake77 View Drop Down
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Like a dumb-ass I forgot about my ruger red label over under in a soft case for a few months. I have some serious rust spots on the barrel now. Anyone have any idea on what it would cost to have the barrel redone? Thanks
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/23/2008 at 00:29
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are you talking about the blueing on the outside.?

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/23/2008 at 12:13
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It's hard to say not knowing your location and your access to any gunsmith who does blueing. If I were doing it as in "stripping the origonal blue off and finishing with a cold blue" (the only way I can do it for now) it would cost between 90.00 and 125.00 depending on if there is a rib or not plus some other variables. If the rust spots aren't too severe and depending on what you want the gun to look like it may be something that can be blended for less than 60.00. Let us know what you come up with and Good Luck!

Edited by Sgt. D - September/23/2008 at 12:14
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/23/2008 at 16:14
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I keep my Citori in a hard case, is that ok?  By hard case I mean the ones that look like a suitcase..... its a take-down version.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/23/2008 at 21:40
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Cases (hard or soft) do little to protect against moisture. Where the case is kept and the conditions that it is put in determine wether it's protection is suffecient or not. I have guns that stay in a case most of the time because of limited space in the safe or due to frequent use. The only way I keep them in good condition is frequent inspection and maintance.
Tip to answer your question, It's been my experience that most foam lined hard cases do slightly better than a soft for keeping moisture/rust in check. BUT If you aren't keeping a light oil or grease coat on any steel part you are asking for problems. Even in a safe with the latest heaters I recomend keeping everything coated.
Honestly, the folks that leave em in a safe or case for months and years without checking condition are the same ones keeping us repair specialist and gunsmiths in business.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/23/2008 at 22:33
snowflake77 View Drop Down
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The blueing on the outside is pretty good other than about two dime spots and one nickel size spot. All are located within that last five inches of the muzzle.  Those figures are a little better than what I was thinking. We are very deprived in our area of any gunsmiths. All of the ones in our area have either past on or retired.  In all seriousness about the only one around is the local Gander Mountain and they won't be seeing any of my guns.  If anyone knows of any in Pa let me know.
Thanks
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/23/2008 at 22:43
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I check on it every month or so.  I do have a de-humidifier that runs in the area.  That's the only gun I keep in a case, everything else is hanging on a rack or standing in a cabinet.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/23/2008 at 22:44
Tip69 View Drop Down
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I bet those spots are from fingers!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/23/2008 at 23:52
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Originally posted by snowflake77 snowflake77 wrote:

The blueing on the outside is pretty good other than about two dime spots and one nickel size spot. All are located within that last five inches of the muzzle.  Those figures are a little better than what I was thinking. We are very deprived in our area of any gunsmiths. All of the ones in our area have either past on or retired.  In all seriousness about the only one around is the local Gander Mountain and they won't be seeing any of my guns.  If anyone knows of any in Pa let me know.
Thanks
Can you post a pic so that we can see just how bad it is. That will help us to make a better recommendation.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/24/2008 at 09:12
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Originally posted by snowflake77 snowflake77 wrote:

The blueing on the outside is pretty good other than about two dime spots and one nickel size spot. All are located within that last five inches of the muzzle.  Those figures are a little better than what I was thinking. We are very deprived in our area of any gunsmiths. All of the ones in our area have either past on or retired.  In all seriousness about the only one around is the local Gander Mountain and they won't be seeing any of my guns.  If anyone knows of any in Pa let me know.
Thanks
 
 
 
I see that alot and like Tip said it is probably from fingers. In most cases the owner lets me try a blend repair, and if I can't get a good blend then they will opt for a reblue. A blend is fairly simple and you can do it if you want to try. Check your local gunshop or go online and order a tube of Birchwood Casey Perma Blue. It is a paste blue that works very well. Once you have that take some 00 steel wool and put a few drops of gun oil on it and buff the rust spots clean (until they shine). Next spray some W-D 40 on a clean cloth and wipe all the oil off. Don't worry about staying right on the spots, you can work a 1/2 inch or so around the spot. Next dry the areas with a clean cloth and take another piece of steel wool about the size of the cap of the blue tube and squeeze some paste onto the steel wool. About the size of a asprin. Work that drop onto the spot trying to stay just on the spot for the first application. Be sure to cover the spot, getting some on the good blue isn't a problem. As the tube instructions say let it stand for 60+ seconds and then rinse off. Let it stand for about 5min before the next step which is to lightly buff the areas with clean steel wool and wipe clean with W-D 40 and wipe dry. You should be pleased to see good results already, but if you don't it probably means there was some oil left on the spot. If so start over. The last step is to take the same piece of wool and dab another drop of blue on the areas again, but this time work it on and around the areas an inch or more and this time buff lightly into the metal. Work the length more than the width and it should look thinner than the first application. Let it stand 60+ seconds and rinse off. let that stand a few minutes and if it looks good then coat the barrel with some gun oil or grease and check it twice a day for a week making sure the areas have a coating because they will rust again if allowed to dry out. If you think more attention is needed then repeat the second application one or two more times and if you don't like the result then a reblue in needed. Keep in mind that gun blue is a controled form of rust and must be reseasoned with oil to prevent deep rust. Play it safe and wipe some oil on the areas every day for a week and you should have a good lasting repair. Let us know how it goes and if i can be of any specific help send me a PM and I'll do what I can. Good Luck!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 23:22
snowflake77 View Drop Down
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Thank you! Very informative and I think that I will give that a try before I send it to a gunsmith. Best pics I could come up with.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/25/2008 at 23:25
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