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Barrel break-in ??

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/22/2008 at 16:51
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I have never done this before. I have read and read ...........and found as much conflicting information as I ever have !!
 
I bought a new Sako 75 .30-06 ! I have surmised that the first 5 shots may be the most important .
 
What I have done :
 
Before shooting it I cleaned the barrel with Sweets 7.62 , ran some dry patches through it..............ran a patch with some Hoppe's solvent trough it and then a dry patch............then an oiled patch and then a dry patch !! I think at this point...........it's the most I have ever done to a rifle !!
 
So I went today and shot it. I cleaned after every shot for 5 shots. I used the Sweet's .....dry patches........solvent......dry patches........oil........dry patches !! After 5 I was sick of this regiment !! No way I would do this for 100 rounds in any interval !!
 
I shot two 3 shot groups and was on pretty good................I ran my bore snake through it a couple of time and used a little oil !
 
All I plan on doing now is periodically cleaning it with the bore snake and some oil/solvent !!
 
What's ya'lls opinion ? Is this good enough............because I seriously doubt I will do much more ! I can say I somewhat tried it though !! Big%20Grin


Edited by cbm - July/22/2008 at 16:53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/22/2008 at 17:42
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I only use bore snakes for cleaning on the go. I use them for my shotguns and rifles when away hunting. The bore snake packs better than the full length fleece rods that do a good job.
For a thorough cleaning you should still use a high quality cleaning rod, bronze not stainless brushes, and caliber specific jags with patches. That's my approach and your mileage may vary.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/22/2008 at 18:39
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Here ya go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRRahHX9Zkg

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/22/2008 at 18:52
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Figured I had to try it once Roy !! Down%20the%20Toilet  Big%20Grin

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/22/2008 at 19:20
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Lots of opinions on both sides of that fence. Outdoor/gun writer, John Barsness said once that he does not believe in the process, but, if you have the time it couldn't hurt. He was quizzed as to why most of the top custom barrel makers have various methods outlined on their websites for their customers and he replied simply that most of their customers still believe that there is a benefit so they provide a process for them to follow. It really had much to do with satisfying their customer requests rather than fulfilling a necessity. In other words, it cut down on having to answer thousands of e-mails about the same thing over and over. All of the custom barrel makers lap their barrels upon completion so I doubt anyone would really see an accuracy improvement by doing the break-in process. Up until recently, Hart barrels didn't even offer a suggested method and in fact stated that it was not necessary with their barrels. Eventually, they added a process to their website, again, just to satisfy their customer requests. In my opinion, if any barrel would benefit from this process, it would most likely be a factory barrel as they are not finish lapped like the custom tubes are.

Roy

Edited by Roy Finn - July/22/2008 at 19:21
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/22/2008 at 21:24
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check the newest issue of rifleshooter, the guy who wrote the article ought to know what the heck he's doing by now, david tubb is world class so i would read what he wrote a couple of times.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/22/2008 at 21:38
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Well I take a cheap box of factory ammo or load 20 cheap bullets.  I shoot and clean with Barnes CR10 after every shot for the first 5 by wetting first and then passing a bronze bore brush through 6 times followed by patches to clean it all out. 
 
Then I start to get real tired of it like cbm so I shoot 3 and clean for the next 9 shots.  Shoot the next 6 rounds and take it home and clean it good.
 
The theory is to give the bullets a chance to take off any small burrs or chatter marks before they get totally filled with copper topped with carbon.  Can't say whether it works or not but it can't hurt.  You can tell a lot about how smooth your barrel is by cleaning like this.  A recent Shilen cleaned well and there was not much crud on the clean patches after the 2nd patch.  Factory barrels are not as good like my Remington 22-250, it will hold onto crud a lot longer.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/22/2008 at 21:52
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Originally posted by sakomato sakomato wrote:

Well I take a cheap box of factory ammo or load 20 cheap bullets.  I shoot and clean with Barnes CR10 after every shot for the first 5 by wetting first and then passing a bronze bore brush through 6 times followed by patches to clean it all out. 
 
Then I start to get real tired of it like cbm so I shoot 3 and clean for the next 9 shots.  Shoot the next 6 rounds and take it home and clean it good.
 
The theory is to give the bullets a chance to take off any small burrs or chatter marks before they get totally filled with copper topped with carbon.  Can't say whether it works or not but it can't hurt.  You can tell a lot about how smooth your barrel is by cleaning like this.  A recent Shilen cleaned well and there was not much crud on the clean patches after the 2nd patch.  Factory barrels are not as good like my Remington 22-250, it will hold onto crud a lot longer.
....................With a new barrel I do the tedious method....One shot then clean, one shot then clean for the 1st set of 10 rounds!....... Two shots then clean, two shots then clean, for the second set of 10 rounds........Three shots then clean for the third set of 9 rounds!.....Then done!.......Tedious but effective!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/22/2008 at 22:03
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Originally posted by pyro6999 pyro6999 wrote:

check the newest issue of rifleshooter, the guy who wrote the article ought to know what the heck he's doing by now, david tubb is world class so i would read what he wrote a couple of times.


Good example of what I was referring to, both sides of the fence. Remember he sells a barrel lapping system, so of course he will promote break-in. You won't find a custom barrel maker that would encourage you to send lapping compound via bullet down one of their tubes. Heck, they cringe at the thought of using JB bore paste. That should tell you what they think of fire lapping. See if there are any independant top benchrest shooters recommending the process and I'll join the other side. I didn't read the article, but, something is telling me perhaps I'll need too.

Roy
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/22/2008 at 22:10
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Originally posted by Big Squeeze Big Squeeze wrote:

Tedious but effective!


Please explain what you mean by effective?

Roy

Edited by Roy Finn - July/22/2008 at 22:11
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/22/2008 at 22:23
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All a barrel break in is going to do is make it hopefully easier to clean cause it might smooth out some burrs.  Roy hit it on the head.  Gale McMillian claimed that a barrel break in was a complete waste of time and it most cases will do more damage to the barrel than good as it just helps to wear it out faster.  Of course he was referring to hand lapped custom barrels.

If you have a factory barrel and run a fire lapping kit through it it will probably help with cleaning and maybe help with accuracy.  I ran one through my 700 VS barrel and cleaning time was cut down a lot, but it did not shoot any better.  One of my rifle instructors said he and a buddy ran one of tubbs kits through a 700P and it smoothed the riflings right out and ruined the barrel. 

I honestly have a hard time believing that running regular old bullets that are mad of soft copper could do anything to the hardened steel burrs and tool marks in a barrel.  Call me crazy but unless you are using something with some grit to it like a fire lapping kit or some kind of hand lapping you are wasting your time.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/23/2008 at 05:07
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I've done it on some and not on others.
I could see no discernible difference in barrel perfomance when using break in proceedures..."by the book" Roll%20Eyes....or not using them at all.      
 
I'm an advocate of cleaning the piss out of one BEFORE ever shooting though.
 
I told Big Daddy that I used #0000 steel wool wrapped around a barrel brush to smooth out new barrels and he indicated I'm an idiot....I mean...that wasn't a good idea and that he would walk me through a proper hand lapping session. Bucky  
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/23/2008 at 05:21
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Ok Big Daddy, you are up!
Please walk us through this process!
 
For the record, I shoot 3 then clean, shoot 5 then clean, shoot 5 clean. After that I consider whatever had to be done as done.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/23/2008 at 06:36
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david also agrees with gale then, he figured 20 rounds of his final finish was all you would need and a lot less rounds run down the tube too.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/23/2008 at 09:49
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Just so I am clear, pyro, are we talking about the Tubb system in place of the barrel break-in process or after the break-in process is complete.
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Originally posted by 8shots 8shots wrote:

Ok Big Daddy, you are up!
Please walk us through this process!


I think Big Daddy may be lost to us.  He has been sucked in by the Ed show and it may be to late to save him.    It appears the Ed show is the dark side to Optics Talk.  Stay in the light folks, stay in the light.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/23/2008 at 10:10
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Watch this vid, and you could see that a tubbs system may do some good on a factory barrel.  And at the same time ruin a hand lapped barrel.
I just really don't see how running regular bullets over steel could smooth anything out.
http://riflebarrels.com/borescope_hi.asx
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/23/2008 at 10:16
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[QUOTE=cheaptrick] I told Big Daddy that I used #0000 steel wool wrapped around a barrel brush to smooth out new barrels .../QUOTE]

actually i'ver heard of this before. interestingly enough this method was used by a benchrest shooter for routine cleaning: #0000 wrapped around a barrel brush + JB bore paste.

i've looked for the site where i read this, but i can't find it anymore :(
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/23/2008 at 11:43
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Originally posted by Jeff H. Jeff H. wrote:

[QUOTE=cheaptrick] I told Big Daddy that I used #0000 steel wool wrapped around a barrel brush to smooth out new barrels .../QUOTE]

actually i'ver heard of this before. interestingly enough this method was used by a benchrest shooter for routine cleaning: #0000 wrapped around a barrel brush + JB bore paste.

i've looked for the site where i read this, but i can't find it anymore :(
 

I have hear of people using 0000 steel wool for that also but I can't see using it for the tube when there is a good water based paste that is easier to work with.

I will use 0000 steel wool in an old boar brush to clean a 742 7400 chamber that is really bad off and is sticking the case's. I have got to be carful when doing this as not to scratch the chamber wall or to get in the rifling. I know this help them cycle allot faster and easier.

 

The way I do it is very simple.

I vise up the rifle and clean all the oils from the factory out with a good boar brush.

 

I take a cleaning rod. Jag, and allot of patches.

Take a patch put some 600 grit paste on the patched jag and run it full length of the barrel 10 times change patch add paste and run full length 10 times. Do this step 10 times.

 

Change to 800grit past and do the same with full length strokes from chamber to crown. Do this 10 times also with 10 strokes each.

 

Change to 1500 grit paste and repeat.

 

Give the rifle a good boar cleaning and then run a few 10 or so dry patches thru it and lightly oil her up. Run 50 rounds thru it and clean really well and you are set to go for a little while. If this doesn’t make since PM me you phone# and I can tell you better that way.

 

I know most of you will get a chukle out of the way i do it.I'm not saying it right or wrong but the way I have found to get a barrle to last and stay cleaner for longer but taking the machine markings out.

 

 



Edited by Bigdaddy0381 - July/23/2008 at 11:48
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/23/2008 at 17:08
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Thanks, Daddy!! Thunbs%20Up 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/24/2008 at 07:06
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Thanks BD, maybe I will try that on my Rem. That is if I am still young enough for all that vigorous work by the time I get my lic.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/24/2008 at 10:09
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Originally posted by supertool73 supertool73 wrote:

Originally posted by 8shots 8shots wrote:

Ok Big Daddy, you are up!
Please walk us through this process!


I think Big Daddy may be lost to us.  He has been sucked in by the Ed show and it may be to late to save him.    It appears the Ed show is the dark side to Optics Talk.  Stay in the light folks, stay in the light.
come%20to%20the%20dark%20side,%20we%20have%20cookies
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/24/2008 at 20:05
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Originally posted by Roy Finn Roy Finn wrote:

Just so I am clear, pyro, are we talking about the Tubb system in place of the barrel break-in process or after the break-in process is complete.
takes the place of the breaking in
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/26/2008 at 18:54
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Well if it takes place of those ridiculous regiments I hear about so often, I'm sure it couldn't hurt. Tubb is no dummy, that's for sure. I did skim through the article and it sounds like the Final Finish is probably aimed more at factory barrels or smiths that don't use reamers with floating pilots. Some of the break-in processes I've read about would take several hours at least. So I guess it boils down to whether you have the time or you have a factory barrel that you feel could be improved upon. It sure would be alot cheaper than ordering a new tube. I'm always a little skeptical of miracle cures.

Roy
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/26/2008 at 21:03
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i read the article again and he said this method is mostly for barrels that have been hand lapped prior to installing on the the action, it doesnt list a set method for the off the shelf factory barrel. i would assume maybe you would just use a few more of the final finish bullets. tubb said to shoot 10 final finish bullets clean the barrel then shoot 10 more and clean and then shoot 10 regular rounds
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