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Anyone here ever heard of Kahles?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/06/2008 at 13:36
huntingtexas View Drop Down
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O.K. a cheap trick for attention I know. Yes, there are 712,000 Kahles threads here, I read them all Whacko. I have a question beause after reading them all my brain is fried.
Please tewll me whick scope I need, here is what I want.
1)  30mm tube
2)  50mm or more obj.
3)  Illum. Recticle
4)  Variable with at least 10 power
5)  Sample list scopes only
6)  I really prefer the 4A style recticle but would like to hear arguments for other styles too
  
Here are two I'd like the information on, I'm confused anbout the illuminated recticles on these. What would the advantage of one be over the other?
 
 
 A)
Kahles 2.5-10x50 Helia C 51626, Matte finish, 1st focal plane Illuminated 4NK reticle, 30mm tube, fast focus eye piece, close to new condition. $1,594.00 $899.95
 
  B)
Kahles 2.5-10x50 Helia CBX 51873, Matte finish, 1st focal plane illuminated 4NK reticle, 30mm tube, fast focus eye piece, close to new condition.
 
 
$1,846.00 $1,099.95
  I really have studied the dozens of Kahles threads but all the info seems to confuse me after awhile. I want a really, really bright scope. So my LAST question ( Excellent ) would be..... what advantages/ disadvantages are there between 50mm obj. and 56mm ojb. scopes ?
I know ring height ,but what disadvantage are there to higher rings. My Weatherbys have the raised cheekpiece so wouldn't that help counter the disadvantages of higher rings?
  Thanks again,
Richard
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/06/2008 at 13:52
jonbravado View Drop Down
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the 56 mm at the SAME magnification as the 50 mm would probably get you maybe 2-3 more minutes of image to resolve in failing light.  That is comparing identical scopes w/ 50, 56 mm bells.  But with all things considered, if you are using glass like kahles, zeiss, swaro - you are already ahead of the game and using almost all the useable light for ethical hunting.
 
option (A) above is solid as it gets for the money.  if you want 2 more minutes of hunting - spend a bunch more money -
 
good luck and let us know what you decide.
 
J
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/06/2008 at 13:56
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CBX has a more advanced reticle illumination system.  If you actually use reticle illumination, this is the way to go, in my opinion.

ILya
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/06/2008 at 14:12
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koshkin knows his stuff -  his opinion trumps the hell out of mine Wink

illumination (GOOD illumination, that is) - is a great thing to have in the lowlight.
that much, i do know.
 
J


Edited by jonbravado - March/06/2008 at 14:12
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/06/2008 at 14:15
huntingtexas View Drop Down
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Thanks Jon good information, the 50mm should do me just fine then.
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Originally posted by koshkin koshkin wrote:

CBX has a more advanced reticle illumination system.  If you actually use reticle illumination, this is the way to go, in my opinion.

ILya
The advanced recticle illumination system is what I'm not sure of, how does it work and what advantage over the on/off illumination system?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/06/2008 at 14:24
koshkin View Drop Down
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For the details how it works, you are better off going to Kahles website.  CBX has a digital illumination system which gives you a wider range of illumination and also allows you to preset a couple of iluumination levels for speed of operation.  The older illumination system on the other scope is analog and it does not have the same range.   When I played with them I preferred the newer system by a solid margin.

ILya
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I have the old style controls on my CB 2.5-10X50, but I compared it head to head with the new controls, and the price difference to get the new controls wasn't worth it to me.  Otherwise the scope itself is the same with the CB vs. the CBX models, which is to say, it's the same as the "C" model.  With the new illumination controls on the CBX & CSX, you turn on illumination by pulling out on the knob.  When you do so, it will return to the preset intensity level that you last used.  With the new controls, the knob is spring loaded so that when you twist the knob in either direction to change intensity, it returns back to the original postition while maintaining the last intensity setting prior to releasing the knob.  With the old controls, you turn illumination on by rotating the knob clockwise and you have to set the intensity level you desire each time you turn it on.  It will not retain the last intensity setting used.  The new controls also have a slightly broader intensity range.  However, this isn't really a big deal to me, because I always use close to the lowest brightness setting anyway, which is a short distance from the off position.  Another thing to consider is that the new controls makes a pretty audible click when you turn it on, whereas the old control is silent when you turn it on, with a faint click when you turn it off.
 
I would highly recommend the 2.5-10X50, and I doubt the 56mm objective will provide much real world benefit over the 50mm.  I have the 4NK reticle in mine as well, and I love it!  When illumination is turned off, it provides all the advantages of the standard 4A, and when turned on, the illuminated portion of the reticle is relatively small, so it doesn't over-illuminate the sight picture.
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/06/2008 at 17:11
huntingtexas View Drop Down
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Originally posted by RifleDude RifleDude wrote:

I have the old style controls on my CB 2.5-10X50, but I compared it head to head with the new controls, and the price difference to get the new controls wasn't worth it to me.  Otherwise the scope itself is the same with the CB vs. the CBX models, which is to say, it's the same as the "C" model.  With the new illumination controls on the CBX & CSX, you turn on illumination by pulling out on the knob.  When you do so, it will return to the preset intensity level that you last used.  With the new controls, the knob is spring loaded so that when you twist the knob in either direction to change intensity, it returns back to the original postition while maintaining the last intensity setting prior to releasing the knob.  With the old controls, you turn illumination on by rotating the knob clockwise and you have to set the intensity level you desire each time you turn it on.  It will not retain the last intensity setting used.  The new controls also have a slightly broader intensity range.  However, this isn't really a big deal to me, because I always use close to the lowest brightness setting anyway, which is a short distance from the off position.  Another thing to consider is that the new controls makes a pretty audible click when you turn it on, whereas the old control is silent when you turn it on, with a faint click when you turn it off.
 
I would highly recommend the 2.5-10X50, and I doubt the 56mm objective will provide much real world benefit over the 50mm.  I have the 4NK reticle in mine as well, and I love it!  When illumination is turned off, it provides all the advantages of the standard 4A, and when turned on, the illuminated portion of the reticle is relatively small, so it doesn't over-illuminate the sight picture.
 
 
That's exactly what I was wanting to hear, I was hoping someone that had experience with both would chime in. I'll take the silent controls that are about 200 bucks cheaper.
Thank-you everyone for your input.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/06/2008 at 17:17
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I have the CSX with the circle dot in one of my Kahles. It is the fastest reticle I have. When I bring the gun up it is there.
I haven't used it much but illuminated reticles are the way to go for me. They are the best solution to low light game hunting I have found, yet.
I also have 4A and 7A reticles in Kahles. In an FFP model they are heavy and good in low light, too. The 7A is better for long range work and the three post 4A is a bit faster to acquire.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/06/2008 at 20:07
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Something I have always wondered, how can the illuminated reticle help? I use a Zeiss Diavari with 4a reticle. As long as there is enough light to reconize a deer or any other kind of game, I can see the reticle well enough to shoot. I don't see how it could help.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/06/2008 at 21:04
tahqua View Drop Down
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With a lit reticle I can see the dot against a dark animals body in heavy cover in the lowest light. Even my 7A or 4A can get lost in this scenario.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/07/2008 at 08:27
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i love the illuminated 3 post & dot reticle, myself.
 
it's the #4 when you need it, but you can barely turn on the illumination for a tiny tiny dot
in the center.  As good as a #4 reticle and euro-glass is - the illuminated dot is the icing on a TASTY cake.
 
J
 
the 4NK is supposed to be a great reticle for what several folks here say.
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/07/2008 at 16:11
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Originally posted by jonbravado jonbravado wrote:

As good as a #4 reticle and euro-glass is - the illuminated dot is the icing on a TASTY cake.
 
J
 
the 4NK is supposed to be a great reticle for what several folks here say.
 
 
 
...and a very DEADLY, tasty cake at that!
 
The 4NK is a great reticle!  I like the fact that the illuminated "+" in the center isn't too large, so with the right brightness setting, it doesn't overpower the view through the scope.  When illumination is turned off, it's essentially a standard 4A.
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