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6x42 IOR Valdada

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/26/2009 at 20:56
biggreen747 View Drop Down
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My friends will think I am crazy but I am seriously considering putting a fixed power 6x42 IOR Valdada 4a reticle on my Kimber Montana 338WM. I find the fact that it has a adjustment lock similar to the Burris Posi-Lock appealing on this rifle since I do not baby my hunting guns. I also like the fact that although it is not ultra lightweight it is still not all that heavy at 16oz, I am willing to trade a few ounces for durability and quality. The rifle is my primary Elk/Moose/Big Animal rifle and I do not feel the fixed power will hinder me at all here in CO and other western states.. If anybody has any experience with this particular scope I would love to hear your opinions. Koshkin, you seem to have good things to say about IOR, I would especially like to hear your opinions as well on this setup. Scope will be mounted in Burris Signature Double Dovetail rings.

Eric
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/27/2009 at 19:18
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I just bought a 6x42 IOR tactical with the MP8 reticle from the sample list here at SWFA.  It is of couse used and did not have a full set of instructions.  One thing you said was that it was similar to the Burris Posi-Lock and I am not sure about that.  This is the lock on the scope which is in the same position as the Burris
 
But the one page printout I received in the box said
 
"4.  RECOIL PROOF WITH MAGNUM SUPPORT SYSTEM - DO NOT ADJUST"
 
I know that with the Burris you are supposed to loosen the lock, zero the rifle and then lock it back.  I don't think you are supposed to do this with the IOR.
 
Also, that one page sheet description listed under technical data a FOV of 20' as does the SWFA website.  The IOR website listed the FOV for the 6x42 hunting scope as 29' and the FOV for the tactical 6x42 was the same before they took it off the website.  A competitor who shall remain un-named lists the FOV for both the hunting and the tactical as 24'.  I do not know which is correct but would seriously like to know.
 
Also, I saw somewhere that the turret has a "return to zero" feature.  I assume that this means you can loosen the turret cap and reinsert where the zero is lined up
 
my question is, which screw do you loosen to take the cap off
 
I know that I could find out by trial and error, but sometime errors have you crawling around on the floor looking for itty bitty springs and things Sad!  So I was hoping someone could steer me to the right screw and maybe tell me what the hell the other screws are for!
 
BTW, the glass looks superb and I concur with your selection of this scope with this caveat;  I don't know how the FOV will work with an Elk rifle in dark timber and won't know positively until it is mounted on the 375 Ruger I am waiting on, so a 4x might be a better choice.
 
 
 
 


Edited by sakomato - November/27/2009 at 19:23
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/28/2009 at 00:24
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Thanks for the info.. I did a little more research as well and it sounds like what looks like a locking system is in fact an additional spring rather than a hard post. I guess same idea different application.. Anyone else know anything more about this system???
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/28/2009 at 05:58
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IOR's magnum lock should NEVER be adjusted by the user.  It is indeed an extra spring and not a hard lock.

6X42 is a very nice scope.  I have one and am very happy with it.

As far as the knobs go, on that turret design you loosen the two outer screws in order to turn and reset the turrets.  NEVER mess with a small center screw.  For exact information, just cal Valdada.

ILya
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/28/2009 at 10:03
Dale Clifford View Drop Down
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of the four Ior, ive had (two sent back), the erector spring cover has always been loose. and even after tightening (finger tight) it still works itself loose. determine your poa=poi back off the two outside screws which allows the rachet in the turret lift up and disengage, rotate it to zero, then shoot again before retightening, as sometimes the rachet will catch a click and through the recenter off a bit.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/27/2009 at 19:48
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Originally posted by koshkin koshkin wrote:

IOR's magnum lock should NEVER be adjusted by the user.  It is indeed an extra spring and not a hard lock.

6X42 is a very nice scope.  I have one and am very happy with it.

As far as the knobs go, on that turret design you loosen the two outer screws in order to turn and reset the turrets.  NEVER mess with a small center screw.  For exact information, just cal Valdada.

ILya
 
Hey koshkin
 
When I loosen the 2 big screws, it frees up only the top of the turret that has the knurls on it and when totally unscrewed it allows you to raise and lower the marked turret
 
so I can use this to set the bottom of the marked turret on whichever horizontal line I want. 
 
However if I turn the turret it stills clicks and will be moving the reticle in the scope.
 
How do I reset the turret marks to zero?  Should I unscrew the center small screw or do I run the risk of chasing itty bitty springs around the floor!?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/27/2009 at 20:01
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when you undue the top it disengages the rachet assembly, but the top part is still geared to the gimbels that move the cross hair, the lower part is just a click or hard stop device. Find your poi=poa by correlating the top turrent, then while holding it(immovable) turn the bottom rachet to the zero (or what other number you want.).  It usually only takes about a 1/2 turn on the two outside screws to engage/disengage.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/27/2009 at 20:45
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Originally posted by Dale Clifford Dale Clifford wrote:

when you undue the top it disengages the rachet assembly, but the top part is still geared to the gimbels that move the cross hair, the lower part is just a click or hard stop device. Find your poi=poa by correlating the top turrent, then while holding it(immovable) turn the bottom rachet to the zero (or what other number you want.).  It usually only takes about a 1/2 turn on the two outside screws to engage/disengage.
 
Thanks DC
 
You are of course correct.  I had to put my bore sighter in before I believed you.  Who would have thought that the free wheeling top was moving the reticle and the clicking turret was not!!  Roll Eyes
 
Now I have another problem.  I probably should not have totally unscrewed the screws because now they are not long enough to reach the screw holes down in the turret.  The turret goes up and down without raising the platen the screw holes are in and they are too low.  I screwed the top all the way down and they still won't reach.
 
Uh-oh!  Working on it.
 
But like koshkin do you agree that removing the center screw is verboten?  I have been working on it for 30 minutes and even though the screw holes are lined up, the screws will not reach.  PITA
 
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/28/2009 at 19:58
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the center screw on mine is peened so one can't turn it-  so  I'm guessing its the same on the 6x. I've never had the outside screws out that far, so this is new to me also, usually the top just pushes down
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/28/2009 at 20:34
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In retrospect, I should not have backed the screws out enough that they became disengaged.  The female threads are tapped into a floating platen inside the turret and when you tighten the screws you are trapping an angle on the top of the turret between the top and the platen and securing the two together.
 
So tomorrow I will take the screws to a couple of places around town and see if I can find some longer ones with the same thread.  If I can get one to pull the platen up, then I can insert the proper shorter screw in the other side and secure the platen and then replace the longer screw.
 
Other than that it is sending it back to IOR or to SWFA to get it fixed.
 
Bummer.  In the future advice should be given to never back out the 2 screws fully.  A set of instructions on IOR's website or from SWFA with the used scope off the sample list could have prevented this.
 
Live and learn.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/28/2009 at 22:16
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This may be a dumb question, but if it's floating couldn't you just turn your gun or scope upside down and have your screws reach.  Don't know just a question.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/28/2009 at 23:10
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I never even got that far with IOR scopes. Have tested them twice in the past 6-7 years and have not been that impressed with the optics. This of course may differ from other's opinions but my tests were with optics charts and not just general impressions. I pretty much concluded that for a practical hunting 6x there were other options, considering optics, weight, etc.

For tactical scopes there may be advantages.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/28/2009 at 23:21
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Originally posted by GetSome GetSome wrote:

This may be a dumb question, but if it's floating couldn't you just turn your gun or scope upside down and have your screws reach.  Don't know just a question.
 
Tried that!  The floating ring just pushes up and the threads won't catch.  The threads are very fine and the platen moves easily.  There is no way to get anything under that cap and hold the platen up because the cap is in the way.  I am afraid that if I get a bent paper clip in one of the holes to hold it closer then that might booger up the threads.
 
JB, the scope is clear and resolution is good but not as bright as my Kahles or Diavari.  I do like the MP8 reticle so far and the scope is going on a 375 Ruger when it is finished so I wanted a solid bulletproof type of scope with a lot of eye relief.  I'm sure there are as good or better but the price was right and I think I will be pleased when I get this turret thing settled.  I was just trying it out on a 300 win mag while it's scope went back to Zeiss for service.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/28/2009 at 23:35
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Kind of figured, but I know when I'm working on things I sometimes overlook the obvious, good luck with the scope sounds like longer screws are gunna be the hot item fix 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/29/2009 at 00:41
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Leupold 6x42 FX-3 Riflescope Long Range Duplex Leupold 6x42 FX-3 Riflescope
Stock # - LEU66820
  • Matte
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  • 1"
  • Xtended Twilight Lens System
$409.95 
Add Leupold 6x42 FX-3 Riflescope to Cart 
I would much prefer this balistic reticle.  Actually I have this scope with the heavy duplex on my 300 WM and like it a lot but this balistic reticle is a true advantage as you can zero for 200 and the dots  below should be about right for 300 and 400 and the point where the post goes thin to thick about right for 500 - whats not to like.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/29/2009 at 20:53
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ExcellentYippeeBig Grin
 
The longer screws worked!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/29/2009 at 21:06
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Originally posted by sakomato sakomato wrote:

ExcellentYippeeBig Grin
 
The longer screws worked!
 Good!
 Metric?
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/29/2009 at 21:37
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Nice.     Break Dance
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/30/2009 at 08:11
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Originally posted by RONK RONK wrote:

Originally posted by sakomato sakomato wrote:

ExcellentYippeeBig Grin
 
The longer screws worked!
 Good!
 Metric?
 
 
Hey Ron
 
I was so happy to find some that I didn't pay much attention but I think they were 4mm x 40 thread
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/30/2009 at 09:00
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the spring pressure from the gimbel set, could have pushed the elevation turret completely up and out of original alignment. Don't know if voids a warranty or not, but if you get it fixed you'll have to really test it for tracking etc.
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