New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - 45 ACP - Slide not going into battery
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Check GunBroker.com for SWFA's No Reserve and No Minimum bid firearm auctions.

45 ACP - Slide not going into battery

 Post Reply Post Reply   Topic Search Topic Search  Topic Options Topic Options
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/14/2014 at 08:09
Gil P. View Drop Down
Optics Journeyman
Optics Journeyman
Avatar

Joined: February/01/2012
Location: Henderson, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 316
Ive been reloading for the 45 ACP for a few months now and I am having an issue with the slide not going fully into battery while shooting out of my 1911. It happens about 10 percent of the time and when it happens I push the slide forward, the round goes into the chamber and then I can fire it.

My reloading process: Tumble brass, decap/resize, bell case mouth, seat primer, charge powder, seat bullet, crimp to .471 with Redding taper crimp die. I do not trim any cases or measure the height of the brass. I do the plunk test with a handful of random rounds and they all seat easily just below flush.

I dont have any issues with factory ammunition. I have tried experimenting a bit with the amount of crimp im using. Could I be experiencing this issue because I dont trim my cases? I might try and use a lot more crimp; I will check and see if maybe im slowing the slide down with my left thumb. I shoot thumbs forward and im right handed.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/14/2014 at 08:52
Bigdaddy0381 View Drop Down
Optics God
Optics God
Avatar
Georgia peach

Joined: February/27/2007
Location: Georgia
Status: Offline
Points: 12815
Originally posted by Gil P. Gil P. wrote:

Ive been reloading for the 45 ACP for a few months now and I am having an issue with the slide not going fully into battery while shooting out of my 1911. It happens about 10 percent of the time and when it happens I push the slide forward, the round goes into the chamber and then I can fire it.

My reloading process: Tumble brass, decap/resize, bell case mouth, seat primer, charge powder, seat bullet, crimp to .471 with Redding taper crimp die. I do not trim any cases or measure the height of the brass. I do the plunk test with a handful of random rounds and they all seat easily just below flush.

I dont have any issues with factory ammunition. I have tried experimenting a bit with the amount of crimp im using. Could I be experiencing this issue because I dont trim my cases? I might try and use a lot more crimp; I will check and see if maybe im slowing the slide down with my left thumb. I shoot thumbs forward and im right handed.


skip this step on 10 rounds, Bullet might be a little harder to seat. See if this is a fix. I had this problem once and it was belling to much and when I crimped it would bubble the case just enough to drag when chambering. I don't bell or crimp any more and not troubles at all.



Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/14/2014 at 09:11
supertool73 View Drop Down
Optics Jedi Master
Optics Jedi Master
Avatar
Superstool

Joined: January/03/2008
Location: Utah
Status: Offline
Points: 9512
I had the same issue and resolved it the same as BigDaddy did. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/14/2014 at 10:00
DCAMM94 View Drop Down
Optics Master Extraordinaire
Optics Master Extraordinaire
Avatar

Joined: April/19/2008
Location: Fort Worth
Status: Offline
Points: 3138
That would be my first check as well.  I have to be very careful with my 38 super cases for the same issue.  Plus, when you bell the case too much, the little bulge behind the crimp is just plain unsightly.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/14/2014 at 22:41
tejas View Drop Down
Optics Journeyman
Optics Journeyman


Joined: March/08/2010
Location: Lone Star State
Status: Offline
Points: 353
You might try a Lee Factory Crimp Die. They crimp and size the case at the same time. If you set it up right it will get rid of the bulge.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2014 at 17:53
Rainman View Drop Down
Optics Apprentice
Optics Apprentice
Avatar

Joined: August/25/2012
Location: Washington Stat
Status: Offline
Points: 281
Don't overlook something as simple as a weak, worn out recoil spring.  Standard spring weight for 5" 1911 is in the 16# range or a combination of a worn spring and bulged cases.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/15/2014 at 20:47
Gil P. View Drop Down
Optics Journeyman
Optics Journeyman
Avatar

Joined: February/01/2012
Location: Henderson, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 316

My cases don't have a bulge near the case mouth, not that I noticed anyway. I will try skipping the step where I bell the case mouth with some cases (and still use the Redding crimp die); on others I will skip both belling the case mouth and crimping to see what happens.

Rainman, I doubt the recoil spring is the issue because this only happens with my reloads and the Wolff spring that is in my 1911 is the 18.5 pound variety with less than 1000 rounds. I do have an extra spring I could try but I don't think that is the issue.

Hope to have some answers by this Wednesday. Thanks for the advice all.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/24/2014 at 22:11
Gil P. View Drop Down
Optics Journeyman
Optics Journeyman
Avatar

Joined: February/01/2012
Location: Henderson, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 316

Some test results:

Control ammo x30 had 3 failures to go into battery.

No crimp, no bell x13 rounds had 2 failures to go into battery.

With crimp, less bell (than control) x 18 rounds had 0 failures to go into battery.

The first of the no crimp, no bell rounds did not feed when I tried to rack the first one in. Im thinking that I was belling the case mouths too much, and that crimping my cases is necessary for reliability in my pistol.

In case anyone is interested I was testing Accurate No. 7 10.0 gr and 10.5 gr, with a 230 gr bullet and CCI large pistol primers. Both were accurate but had stiff recoil and some flattened primers. I may try backing it off to 9.5 gr to see what happens.



Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/25/2014 at 10:59
BeltFed View Drop Down
Optics God
Optics God
Avatar

Joined: February/12/2008
Location: Ky
Status: Offline
Points: 16067
Try belling your cases just enough to start the bullet in the case, and taper crimp to ensure the bell is removed. Also while this shouldn't be an issue, it wouldn't hurt to trim your cases.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/25/2014 at 11:12
Rainman View Drop Down
Optics Apprentice
Optics Apprentice
Avatar

Joined: August/25/2012
Location: Washington Stat
Status: Offline
Points: 281
What brand brass and what bullet are you using?  Are you using more than one magazine and/or what brand magazines?  Which gun and model (steel or aluminum frame)?  These things are very frustrating.  Went through something similar with a Colt L W Commander in .38 Super about a year ago.  Turns out most, if not all, modern.38 Super's for the US market have chambers cut for 9mm diameter bullets.  The slightly larger diameter .38 Super Speer 130s would not reliably go into battery, similar failure rate to what you are experiencing with your .45 hand loads.  It also happened with one brand of brass more frequently than with two others.  It could be that something is happening during the slide cycle that is causing resistance and slowing the slide down after it picks up a new round (i.e. the round starts to nose up but recovers, however, the bullet slides along the hood and top of the chamber slowing everything down).  Also try running a cotton ear swab around the chamber to check to see if there are any rough spots anywhere that hangs up and pulls cotton off the swab such as at the end of the chamber where the rifling starts.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/25/2014 at 12:57
Gil P. View Drop Down
Optics Journeyman
Optics Journeyman
Avatar

Joined: February/01/2012
Location: Henderson, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 316

Originally posted by BeltFed BeltFed wrote:

Try belling your cases just enough to start the bullet in the case, and taper crimp to ensure the bell is removed. Also while this shouldn't be an issue, it wouldn't hurt to trim your cases.

I tried what you suggested about belling the cases just enough to start the bullet in the case and then taper crimping and it seems to be working. I haven't had an issue since I switched, but I haven't fired enough cases that were made that way to be sure; I'll keep on testing that.

I use all different types of brass so trimming may help. Maybe I have some really short cases that don't get the same crimp that the others do.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/25/2014 at 13:02
Gil P. View Drop Down
Optics Journeyman
Optics Journeyman
Avatar

Joined: February/01/2012
Location: Henderson, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 316

Originally posted by Rainman Rainman wrote:

What brand brass and what bullet are you using?  Are you using more than one magazine and/or what brand magazines?  Which gun and model (steel or aluminum frame)?  These things are very frustrating.  Went through something similar with a Colt L W Commander in .38 Super about a year ago.  Turns out most, if not all, modern.38 Super's for the US market have chambers cut for 9mm diameter bullets.  The slightly larger diameter .38 Super Speer 130s would not reliably go into battery, similar failure rate to what you are experiencing with your .45 hand loads.  It also happened with one brand of brass more frequently than with two others.  It could be that something is happening during the slide cycle that is causing resistance and slowing the slide down after it picks up a new round (i.e. the round starts to nose up but recovers, however, the bullet slides along the hood and top of the chamber slowing everything down).  Also try running a cotton ear swab around the chamber to check to see if there are any rough spots anywhere that hangs up and pulls cotton off the swab such as at the end of the chamber where the rifling starts.

I'm using an assortment of brass.

Bullets are X-treme copper plated bullets 230 gr RN.

I am using Chip McCormick magazines and I have 3 of them.

Pistol is a Steel framed customized Springfield GI in 45 ACP.

I never thought about checking the chamber, I'll be sure to do that.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/27/2014 at 12:56
Rainman View Drop Down
Optics Apprentice
Optics Apprentice
Avatar

Joined: August/25/2012
Location: Washington Stat
Status: Offline
Points: 281
I checked Extreme's website and their bullets look like like quality components as are the gun and magazines.  Useful life of a recoil spring is usually around 5,000 rounds but if you have another 5" 1911 that is functioning reliably you might switch springs as a check point.  I change recoil springs between 18# (stock weight) and 15# in my Baer 1911 Comanche depending on bullet weight and powder charge but in a 5" gun a 16# spring should work with most loads.  It makes a big difference in the Comanche whether the slide locks open on the last round or not.  If you have access to a friendly gunsmith he might be able to check your spring weight if you don't know for sure what weight was used in the build.  If you have a heavy spring such as 18# with light loads the slide may be short cycling.  I know from experience how frustrating this is when you are using quality components and experience these kinds of problems.  It's a big time waster and it will probably turn out to be a very simple fix once the problem is identified.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/28/2014 at 16:32
Gil P. View Drop Down
Optics Journeyman
Optics Journeyman
Avatar

Joined: February/01/2012
Location: Henderson, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 316

I'll changing out springs today, I have a spare Wolff 18.5 pound spring laying around. If that doesn't work I could try a 16 pound spring like you suggested. I am using some loadings that are on the hotter side though. I can really feel the difference in recoil from factory ammo vs my reloads. The thing is that my pistol functions just fine with the lower power, low recoil factory ammo... I'm going to do some more testing today and I'll switch springs to see what happens.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/14/2014 at 23:42
Gil P. View Drop Down
Optics Journeyman
Optics Journeyman
Avatar

Joined: February/01/2012
Location: Henderson, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 316
I have given up on trying to make my reloads work, and I have begun to think that there may be something wrong with my pistol and not my reloads. I tried a newer heavier 18.5 pound Wolff spring, it made no difference.

I bought some factory Fiocchi ammunition to see if matching the COAL of my reloads to it would improve things. That day I shot the box of 50 factory Fiocchi rounds and about 70 of my reloads and everything worked flawlessly. I made more of my reloads exactly the same way a short time later and started experiencing the same issues again.

The last time I took my 1911 out, I noticed that it did not have a consistent ejection pattern. Some of the cases would go straight up, some would fly back at my face.

My cases are below the trim-to length of .898, my bullets measure .451 inches in diameter. I forget the COAL but they pass the "plunk" test.

I took my 1911 to the gunsmith today and explained the problems I was having. He suspected it was my reloads so I am taking some to him tomorrow.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/16/2014 at 19:54
Sgt. D View Drop Down
Optics Master Extraordinaire
Optics Master Extraordinaire
Avatar

Joined: February/20/2008
Location: North Carolina
Status: Offline
Points: 3639
I suspect you loads are under powered. I've seen this on 9mm, and 45 reloads. I didn't see where you mentioned checking the velocity of your reloads compared to factory. If under powered the slide cycles short and doesn't have the momentum to drive em home. Try to match the velocity of your factory loads and see if the problem goes away. Good Luck!!!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/17/2014 at 20:37
Urimaginaryfrnd View Drop Down
MODERATOR
MODERATOR
Avatar
Resident Redneck

Joined: June/20/2005
Location: Iowa
Status: Offline
Points: 13868
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/171349/le-wilson-max-cartridge-gage-45-acp?cm_vc=ProductFinding
Wilson Max Cartridge Gage 45 ACP
Shop more L.E. Wilson products
L.E. Wilson has been producing high quality precision reloading tools for over 80 years. The Max Cartridge gage gives reloaders the ability to check all critical maximum SAAMI cartridge dimensions of straight wall cartridges - mouth diameter, base diameter, rim thickness and diameter, case and overall length and bullet diameter.

Technical Information
Notes:
  • If your cartridge will fit into the gage, it should fit in any firearm chambered to SAAMI specifications for this specific cartridge.
  • Not all firearm chambers or magazines are designed to SAAMI specifications.

  • Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/18/2014 at 23:50
    Gil P. View Drop Down
    Optics Journeyman
    Optics Journeyman
    Avatar

    Joined: February/01/2012
    Location: Henderson, NV
    Status: Offline
    Points: 316
    Originally posted by Sgt. D Sgt. D wrote:

    I suspect you loads are under powered. I've seen this on 9mm, and 45 reloads. I didn't see where you mentioned checking the velocity of your reloads compared to factory. If under powered the slide cycles short and doesn't have the momentum to drive em home. Try to match the velocity of your factory loads and see if the problem goes away. Good Luck!!!


    just got it back today and the gunsmith was kind enough not to charge me.  Here is what they said: the powder I am using (Accurate No. 7) is much too slow for the 230 gr bullets im using. They said "youre only burning about 40 % of the powder." Which is probably true since I can see a lot of unburned powder all around the internals of the gun including the locking lugs and chamber. They said that the unburned powder in the chamber is what was causing my pistol to malfunction and not fully go into battery. I previously thought it was just some dirt that blew into the gun from the wind. It looks kind of like sand.

    The gunsmith mentioned something about the timing of the pistols action may be off because of the powder. The recoil is considerably heavier that standard factory ammunition though, so I think it may just be the fouling.

    They also said that my reloaded cartridges may be oversized. I have noticed a slight bulge on one side or the other of the case after the bullet is seated. My cases measure .472 - .473 a couple thousands away from the case mouth - what do yours measure? - Im inserting the bullets into the case mouth as straight as I possibly can, but maybe my RCBS dies are causing the bullets to get misaligned during seating? I havent been very impressed with the RCBS dies, they came with noticeable damage to the threads (or maybe im just being a drama queen). I also crimp with a Redding crimp die to .469 - .470

    Luckily, the gunsmith said there was absolutely nothing wrong with my pistol. Do you or anyone else notice a bulge behind the case mouth after seating your bullets?
    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/18/2014 at 23:52
    Gil P. View Drop Down
    Optics Journeyman
    Optics Journeyman
    Avatar

    Joined: February/01/2012
    Location: Henderson, NV
    Status: Offline
    Points: 316
    Originally posted by Urimaginaryfrnd Urimaginaryfrnd wrote:

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/171349/le-wilson-max-cartridge-gage-45-acp?cm_vc=ProductFinding
    Wilson Max Cartridge Gage 45 ACP
    Shop more L.E. Wilson products
    L.E. Wilson has been producing high quality precision reloading tools for over 80 years. The Max Cartridge gage gives reloaders the ability to check all critical maximum SAAMI cartridge dimensions of straight wall cartridges - mouth diameter, base diameter, rim thickness and diameter, case and overall length and bullet diameter.

    Technical Information
    Notes:
  • If your cartridge will fit into the gage, it should fit in any firearm chambered to SAAMI specifications for this specific cartridge.
  • Not all firearm chambers or magazines are designed to SAAMI specifications.



  • Thanks, ill be sure to get one of these. I have a similar case gauge from Wilson for my 308 I really like.
    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/19/2014 at 10:51
    Sgt. D View Drop Down
    Optics Master Extraordinaire
    Optics Master Extraordinaire
    Avatar

    Joined: February/20/2008
    Location: North Carolina
    Status: Offline
    Points: 3639

    Originally posted by Gil P. Gil P. wrote:

    Originally posted by Sgt. D Sgt. D wrote:

    I suspect you loads are under powered. I've seen this on 9mm, and 45 reloads. I didn't see where you mentioned checking the velocity of your reloads compared to factory. If under powered the slide cycles short and doesn't have the momentum to drive em home. Try to match the velocity of your factory loads and see if the problem goes away. Good Luck!!!


    just got it back today and the gunsmith was kind enough not to charge me.  Here is what they said: the powder I am using (Accurate No. 7) is much too slow for the 230 gr bullets im using. They said "youre only burning about 40 % of the powder." Which is probably true since I can see a lot of unburned powder all around the internals of the gun including the locking lugs and chamber. They said that the unburned powder in the chamber is what was causing my pistol to malfunction and not fully go into battery. I previously thought it was just some dirt that blew into the gun from the wind. It looks kind of like sand.

    The gunsmith mentioned something about the timing of the pistols action may be off because of the powder. The recoil is considerably heavier that standard factory ammunition though, so I think it may just be the fouling.

    They also said that my reloaded cartridges may be oversized. I have noticed a slight bulge on one side or the other of the case after the bullet is seated. My cases measure .472 - .473 a couple thousands away from the case mouth - what do yours measure? - Im inserting the bullets into the case mouth as straight as I possibly can, but maybe my RCBS dies are causing the bullets to get misaligned during seating? I havent been very impressed with the RCBS dies, they came with noticeable damage to the threads (or maybe im just being a drama queen). I also crimp with a Redding crimp die to .469 - .470

    Luckily, the gunsmith said there was absolutely nothing wrong with my pistol. Do you or anyone else notice a bulge behind the case mouth after seating your bullets?

    I've had no issues with my RCBS dies but if yours came with issues I'd be concerned about their overall quality. I don't recall any bulge issues ether. 

    He must have meant undersized if you are getting a seating bulge. Oversize would require you to crimp to keep tension on the bullet. That is how mine load. I have to crimp slightly to keep everything like I want it. I think I would try another set of dies and see if that helps. The sizing die in your set may not be set properly. I wanted to offer some load recipes but I don't remember what powder I was using. I'll have to do some digging and find it.


    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/19/2014 at 12:08
    Gil P. View Drop Down
    Optics Journeyman
    Optics Journeyman
    Avatar

    Joined: February/01/2012
    Location: Henderson, NV
    Status: Offline
    Points: 316
    My RCBS full length sizing die is set up so  that it just kisses the shell holder. Maybe i'm do something wrong? The bulge appears behind the case mouth after I seat a bullet. My cases measure .472-.473 in that area (that is the area around the case where the bullet is now sitting once it has been seated inside the case. I then crimp the case mouth to .469-.470.
    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/06/2014 at 13:58
    Gil P. View Drop Down
    Optics Journeyman
    Optics Journeyman
    Avatar

    Joined: February/01/2012
    Location: Henderson, NV
    Status: Offline
    Points: 316

    I found some faster burning powders...

    I used a near max load of H Hi Skor 700X and in 50 rounds, experienced 0 malfunctions.

    I used 6.1 grains of Unique and experienced no malfunctions.

    I used just over 9 grains of Accurate No. 7 and experienced the same malfunctions I did before.

    I'm going to continue testing to be sure it was just the Accurate No. 7 powder that was causing malfunctions, but right now, that seems to be the case. I cleaned my 1911 in between shooting the different types of powder.

    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/12/2014 at 09:09
    Alan Robertson View Drop Down
    Optics Master
    Optics Master
    Avatar

    Joined: October/31/2009
    Location: Oklahoma
    Status: Offline
    Points: 1721
    Howdy Gil P.
    I hope the faster powders solve your problem. With autoloaders, timing is everything and this type of issue can crop up for multiple reasons.

    .45ACP has always done well with faster powders and chief among them is Bullseye, which is the old standby in .45acp. Another great powder for .45 is W231, aka HP38. It's faster than Unique and I feel naked if I don't have a couple of pounds of it on hand. HP38 is also a small flattened ball and runs through powder measures like water, giving very consistent measures.
    I've seen Hodgdon Clays recommended for .45 (but not by me) as it is close to Bullseye in burn speed, but it doesn't really work well in .45acp for standard 230 Gr loads, or lighter 200 Gr. People praise Clays for giving a smooth recoil pulse, but really, I think that soft feel is just because heavy bullet loads are low velocity, as Clays pressures up before reaching anywhere close to standard velocity. If you like to shoot softer 230 Gr loads, Clays might work. Clays does work very well with 185 Gr bullets and you can build some ripsnorter ammo with it, but I personally won't be buying more. You can't make major with 230 gr. bullets and just barely can with 200 Gr. with Clays in .45acp.

    in re: Xtreme bullets- they can cause some feed issues, as the meplat on some of their bullets seems to be too thick, or at just the wrong place, somehow... this may be a phenomenon of the bullet plating. I'll explain: I have 2 barrels (Barsto) which require seating Xtreme bullets deeper than for other barrels. Completed rounds will fit perfectly in my Wilson gauge, but the Xtreme meplat contacts the rifling in the barrels too early and the rounds won't drop completely into the chamber (they fail your "plunk test",) so the slide won't close. As result, I use the barrels themselves as case gauges and have found that I need to seat the Xtreme bullets about .020" deeper than non- target barrels, just to fit in chamber.  For instance, with Xtreme truncated cone bullets in all weights, minimum seating runs (1.181" vs stndrd 1.2" c.o.a.l.) and really, they work best even shorter than that, down to 1.151" oal. That's really invading powder space >>> watch pressures<<<
    I've had no trouble with Xtreme's 200 Gr semi- wadcutters and they are accurate and while more expensive than standard cast bullets, obviously have zero leading issues, as can happen with commercial, carelessly alloyed bullets.

    Springs of all sorts can cause feed issues, including the hammer spring. I've seen magazine catchs that were worn ever so slightly, dropping the magazine a bit short causing issues, as well as worn slots on the mags themselves (feed lips, followers, springs, dents, you name it)

    Finally, a guy can easily get into the habit of bumping the slide closed by hand when feed issues develop.
    That is an exceedingly bad habit. Don't do it.

    Squib loads are a fact of life. It is possible to stick a squib bullet in the barrel just at that point where the slide just "almost" goes into battery and a quick bump can close it. With all the noise and distractions on the firing line, the squib can easily go unnoticed, as the next round "almost" feeds. I've had that happen and that little feeling... "better not"... (you know the one?) saved my bacon.




    Edited by Alan Robertson - December/12/2014 at 09:24
    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/12/2014 at 09:23
    Alan Robertson View Drop Down
    Optics Master
    Optics Master
    Avatar

    Joined: October/31/2009
    Location: Oklahoma
    Status: Offline
    Points: 1721
    Ps Best practice for failure to go into battery is to unload the pistol, rack the slide back and peer down the barrel, then proceed.

    Clays powder was listed in earlier (vintage?) manuals such as Hodgdon #26 with loads giving good velocities across the board in .45acp, but current manuals do not list such stiff loads. Either the formula was changed over the years, or too many high pressure issues were reported back to Hodgdon.
     Post Reply Post Reply
      Share Topic   

    Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

    Similar Threads: "45 ACP - Slide not going into battery"
    Subject Author Forum Replies Last Post
    Not sure if should go with medium or high mounts nickorette Rings and bases 4
    Dot Sight for Ruger 22/45 glockster68 Rimfire / Airgun 2
    XDM 45? grizbacker Firearms 23
    Marlin 1895 SBL 45-70 Preston Varmint Scopes 13
    Sharps 45-70 m00n Firearms 8
    15-45 or 20-60? Waldo Spotting Scopes 0
    Scope for 45-70 Marlin 1895XLR avery Shotgun / BlackPowder Scopes 8
    45-70 TimW Rifle Scopes 12
    Ruger 22/45 SVT_Tactical Firearms 26
    Scope for 1885 in 45-70 snuff Rifle Scopes 3


    This page was generated in 0.516 seconds.