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30-06 acsubond 180's with RL-19 help

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2013 at 22:04
avery View Drop Down
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I have decided to take the plunge into reloading. I purchased a Hornady reloading kit it comes with 8th edition reloading book. There is a real shortage of gun power where i live. I was told by a few with a lot of time spent reloading to use IMR 4064 but i couldn't find any, the next thing on the suggested list was RL-19. I have always used Federal Premium Nolser Accubond 180's in my tikka t3 30-06. It was maybe the second or third factory stuff i tried it gave me 1" groups @ 100 and so like most beginners i'm sure, that's what i decided to purchase for reloading. Only change is I've opted for Nosler custom brass.

I'm not able to find the nosler reloading book where i live and I've tried their web site and it do not show RL-19. I'm told they list more data in there book, makes sense i guess if all the info was on their web site they wouldn't sell many books. I will be ordering the book online but usually that will take a week to get where i live. I really want to start this process and go to the range and start collecting data.

The last kicker is our local store is out of CCI-200 and only have CCI-250, should i not use these at all and just travel to the next town and purchase the CCI-200?

Thank for your help, 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/03/2013 at 09:32
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   I don't have any manuals that use the Accubond but my Nosler #4 shows RL-22 giving the highest velocity and AA3100 being the most accurate powder tested with the 3 180gr bullets listed. It doesn't list RL-19.  RL-19 is a bit on the fast side as far as burn rate goes but if it's all you can get I would think you could find an accurate load.  My Speer manual shows a starting load of 55gr and a max load of 59gr(compressed) with all 5 of the 180gr bullets listed using RL-19.
 
  As far as primers go I use CCI's alot.  My rule of thumb is any time I'm approaching a 60gr powder charge in any cartridge I load for I go with the CCI-250.
 
  Hope this info can be of some help.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/03/2013 at 23:17
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I've got the Nosler#7 reloading book. Accuracy load is 62 grs RL22 with the 180 accubond, WLR primer, Nosler brass. That should give you 2812 fps from a 24" bbl. COL is 3.330.

If all you can find is RL19, use 56-60 grains with the same info above. That is from the same book. 60 grs is the accuracy load with that powder and will give you 2742 fps. 

DON'T start with the max load! I'm reminding you of this because your new to reloading :)

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/04/2013 at 12:56
avery View Drop Down
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Thanks for the info guys, I called another supplier in a town pretty close to me and they have RL-22 think i might travel there this weekend and purchase.

I have another question to add here.... I have the Nosler Custom brass for the 30-06 it comes trimmed and ready to reload with out work but i measure every one last night and i have 15 @ 2.477-0 12 @ 2.477-5 and 33 @ 2.478-0, my digital shows either nothing or 5 as the 4th digit past the decimal which I have indicated with the -X. The specks i have in the hornday reloading book indicate a case length of 2.949. should this be something i should be worried about?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/04/2013 at 13:03
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That looks like a miss print 2.494 is what my book shows.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/04/2013 at 13:27
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You bet 2.494 is what my book says it was a miss print. But should i be worried about the 2.477 to 2.478 that my brass is.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/04/2013 at 13:42
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I would not be to worried about less than 2 hundredths of on inch.  A bottleneck case headspaces off the shoulder not the rim.  So as long as it is not to long it and jams into the throat, it won't hurt anything. 


Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/04/2013 at 13:49
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  A bit short and of equal length is better than too long. Actually that 2.494 is the max length. Trim length should be 2.484 so your good to go. 
 
  How do the necks look? Some can be a bit out of round.  I like to true up new casing necks for a more equal tension on the bullets anyway.  No need to size the neck down. Just run the expander through the necks if you want. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/04/2013 at 14:45
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Originally posted by supertool73 supertool73 wrote:

I would not be to worried about less than 2 hundredths of on inch. 



Not trying to be a smartass, but you mean thousandths, right?

2 hundredths of an inch = .02" or 20 thousandths.

2 thousandths = .002"
Smile
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/04/2013 at 15:04
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No.  2.494 - 2.477 would be .017.  So close to 2 hundredths of an inch.  Unless I am losing it. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/04/2013 at 16:21
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Thanks for the info, I have a full length re-sizing die, should I be looking for a neck re-sizing die to initially size the throat in new brass?
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/04/2013 at 16:22
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No, just run it down enough to put the expander ball through it.  Thats typically all you need to do with new brass.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/04/2013 at 21:41
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Thanks for the info guys, much apprechaited...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/05/2013 at 10:32
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  Keep in touch and let us know how things go if you would.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/05/2013 at 11:44
avery View Drop Down
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I will do, just found out there's a gun trade show showing up in the neighboring town this weekend :) , think i'm going to go should be lots of knowledgeable people there to talk to... Just like this form...

I spent a few hours last night measuring the OAL of the nosler accubonds 180's i had purchased and i found the range in OAL to be from 1.387-0 to 1.393-0 the specks for these bullets indicate a OAL of 1.380 on nosler's web site. The diameter of all bullets where .308 with just a few .307-5.

If my bullets have different OAL then would that change where the Ogive is with respect to the tip of the bullet?  If that's so, then by measure the distance from the head of the case to the bullet tip to get OAL would that not have differences that you can't measure causing different lengths of jump into the lands of my gun?

Is all this something i should be worrying about or are the differences in in bullet length and jump cause by this so small i would not see any difference in grouping?

My handloading books talks about a tool sits ontop of the bullet and when used with my calipers will give a OAL that uses the bullets ogive not the tip as a reference. Is this tool worth finding? 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/05/2013 at 11:58
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  From my experience over the yrs of using a comparator to measure various brands of bullets I'd say the oal consistancy of your AB's when measured off of the ogive is very good.  I,as you have now found out,it's not so consistant when measuring from base to tip. Lead tips are even worse.
 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/05/2013 at 19:37
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Thanks 300s&w, if I don't find one at the trade show that link should do the trick....
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/07/2013 at 00:23
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Found a hornady tool for measuring oal from the ogive at the gun show also picked up some rl-22 and a sweet z5 5-25x52 BT 4w! Can't Waite to mount the scope load some rounds and hit the range!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/08/2013 at 00:05
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So I've been measuring and I've found the Federial premium AB 180's that I've been shooting averages 2.614-0 measuring from the ogive. The tool for measuring my rifle came out with a 2.745-0" average. So the average jump in my factory ammo is 0.131-0". I've read in my nosler reloaded 7 (also found that at the gun show :) ) that a jump of 0.015" and 0.030" is recommended for must bullet types. Because I've also read other places that 0.020" is recommended generally for hunting loads this is the jump I'm thinking about using. I loaded one bullet and set my press to (2.745-0 minus 0.020") 2.725-0 with out primer and powder to see how it would load in my gun and it seams silky smooth. I also cycled my bolt a few times then took the bullet out and re measured to see the bullet got pushed back into the cause and it didn't ( not sure if the last step was ness but I did it anyway).

so the problem for me is if the average jump in my factory load is 0.131" then is the change to 0.020" quite a lot? The gun is 1moa with three shots with the factory ammo. should I expect better accuracy with 0.020" jump or should I stick with 0.131"?


Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2013 at 12:21
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I also have another question and it is about loads that are over 100% of case volume? Is this quite normal are there extra precautions to when doing this? I'm asking because Nosler Re-loader 7 is indicating using RL-22 and 180 grain AB is the most accurate combination and 2 of the 3 weights show indicate 100% of more fill.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2013 at 13:15
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  First thing to check on is what OAL your mag box will handle. 
 
  Alot of reloaders start with the ogive lightly touching the lands but since I'm developing my loads strictly for hunting I'll start at .005 off the lands. Just me maybe.  Seems the closer the better accuracy though.  So should you stick with .131 or go to .020?  Got to see how they shoot.  One good thing seems to be,as Sinclair Intl. has found out, is that once an optimum distance off the lands(cartridge OAL) has been found for a particular bullet that depth will work for other bullets in that particular rifle. It's worked out that way for me.
 
  Sometimes it just works out that compacted loads give the best accuracy.  Seems the fuller the case the better. It's a sign that that particular powder is approaching the slower end of the burning rate spectrum.  Use too slow a powder and you'll actually not be able to get enough in the casing to achieve even a practical velocity.  Nothing wrong with them as long as they don't apply enough pressure to move the bullet out of the neck some.  You can also use a drop tube on the funnel or powder measure to better seat the powder.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/11/2013 at 18:14
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Originally posted by avery avery wrote:

I also have another question and it is about loads that are over 100% of case volume? Is this quite normal are there extra precautions to when doing this? I'm asking because Nosler Re-loader 7 is indicating using RL-22 and 180 grain AB is the most accurate combination and 2 of the 3 weights show indicate 100% of more fill.
Interesting that they published the most accurate load in their rifle.
In '06, RL19 works about as well for me as RL22 until I get into 200 gr and above. RL22 usually has a bit faster velocity below 200 gr. at higher pressure with more powder.
Since RL17 released, may not replenish my empty stock of 19 and 22.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/11/2013 at 19:11
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That's a good point to keep in mind their listed most accurate load is for their test gun... Thanks that didn't cross my mind...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/11/2013 at 20:32
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 Nosler went from using custom and production rifles (#2 manual 1981) to using universal receivers (#4 manual in 1996)equipped with bbls from various top brand manufacturers that were of SAAMI minimum spec bores and chambers.  Their web site lists bbl manufacturers with the load data so it looks as if they're still using the universal receivers.  This data is good in that Nosler is showing you the actual velocities they got safely at or near the assigned SAAMI listed max pressure for that particular cartridge. In over 30yrs of using Nosler data I've found that starting with that most accurate load powder is never a bad place to start.  If possible it's good use the same components they use for that particular data also.   
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/11/2013 at 23:20
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The only components that I was going to use different than what is listed in Book 7 is Federal 210 match primers in place of the WLR listed. The accurate load is rl-22 with 62 grain which is the max load as well. I was thinking of starting at 60 and working up 60,60.5,61,61.5 and then 62. I'm planning on loading 5 of each and heading to the range. Start shooting @ 60 and working my way up to 62 checking for signs of over pressure. I also have a box of factory federal premium 180 AB which i plan to shoot a few of first so that i can inspect the case and primers so i have something to compare. I don't have a cromo yet so i wont be able to monitor speed. I will be trying the local store tomorrow to see if they have on for a reasonable price, but as of right now i don't have. Again my rifle is a tikka t3 30-06... I have the impressions that the max listed pressures are defiantly attainable with my rifle and they would be more of a concern if i was using and old rifle chambered in 30-06 (is this wrong to assume?)    
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