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1st day with new M70 7mm rem mag

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/02/2012 at 22:51
mil169 View Drop Down
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I' ll have to apologize in advance for lack of pics, but I haven' t had time to take them yet.

I took my new M70 to the range today to start the break in procedure. It started at the 25 yd line with 154 grain hornady superformance sst's. I intended to do 5 single shot groups with cleaning in between followed by several 3 shot groups and lastly 5 shot groups. Well the moment got the better of me and I shot 6 before the first cleaning. After a thorough cleaning with copper removing solvent, I shot several more 2 shot groups with cleaning in between. Once I was satisfied from that distance I moved to the 100 yd line. My first shot was about 8 high and good left and right. With 2 shot groups it came down constantly to about 1 " high.

I moved to a new target to shoot the last 5 rounds. From a clean barrel the first was 2 1/2 high and 1 right. The second was 1/2 low and 1/2 left. The third was 2 high and 1 1/4 right. The fourth was 1 1/4 high and 1/4 right. The fifth was 1/2 high but 4 left. This string was shot consecutively with not much time between shots. I may have pulled the last shot, but I don't think so. It was the 20th time I shot it though, so it's possible. But even excluding that shot the group is no where near where I want to be. Is it possible the barrel was getting to hot?

This is the first box ran thru the rifle. What other ammo should I try, or any other "break in" procedure should I follow. This is a hunting rifle but I want it good out to 400 or so.

Please help, any suggestions are appreciated. I" ll try to get pics up tomorrow.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/02/2012 at 23:58
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Honestly my suggestion would be to try some heavier bullets...And to leave the cleaning gear at home. I am a former Marine, and it took awhile to learn, but with MY rifle, every week is qual week. Meaning when I take my rifle out to shoot, I want it to preform just like it did when I put it away. The only way that happens is if I leave the bore fouled until accuracy falls off. With my rifle, which is chambered in 300 WSM, and has a McGowan barrel, is right about 300 rounds. And I don't clean down to bare steel ever. The only time that barrel has ever been cleaned down to bare steel is before I ever installed it.
 The 7mm is a great cartridge, good luck.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 09:26
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i agree with the gentleman from the great state of arizona. i wouldnt really waste my time using anything less than a 160gr bullet in the 7mm. the nosler accubond comes to my mind right away as a very good choice.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 11:35
mil169 View Drop Down
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Haven't had much time to shop, but I picked up a box of Winchester 175 grain power points. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 12:08
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Don't worry about too much break in. I agree totally with the 160 Accubond and the 7 mag. It is a match made in Heaven. I am loading that bullet in my 7 mag with great results. It is also available factory loaded through a few different manufacturers.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 12:17
mil169 View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Bitterroot Bulls Bitterroot Bulls wrote:

Don't worry about too much break in. I agree totally with the 160 Accubond and the 7 mag. It is a match made in Heaven. I am loading that bullet in my 7 mag with great results. It is also available factory loaded through a few different manufacturers.
 
That sounds great, the 175's I picked I thought would be a little heavy. Which factory load should I try in the 160 accubond? Winchester, federal, Double Tap? Thinking of going with the Winchester, any reason I shoud try one of the others?


Edited by mil169 - June/03/2012 at 12:26
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 12:23
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  I was just wondering if you checked out the rifle before you shot it.  I completely disassemble any new rifle and check things out before I shoot them.  Disassemble the bolt and degrease it inside and out. Carb cleaner works good. I then put a small amount of hi temp grease behind each locking lug and on the cocking cam and in it's slot.  Degrease the chamber and inside the bbl. For the trigger assembly I flush it out with lighter fluid and let it air dry. Then look for any oddities in the stock action bedding area like wood chips,any excessive build up of finish,or anything imbedded in the finish.  When reassembling the rifle make sure the recoil lug is set against the back of where it seats before tighting the action screws.  I grip the bbl and forend with one hand a bump the butt on the floor and grip firmly.  Hold tight as you install the action screws and make sure they aren't binding on the stock as they thread in.  How tight to make the screws?  Some use a torque wrench.  I alternate front to back and then make the front screw REAL TIGHT and the back one TIGHT. The middle one,if it has one, is just for adjusting for proper floorplate closure and is no more than snugged.  Then I check for bbl to stock forend clearance and proper forend tip pressure unless it's a free floating bbl.  Using one hand holding the rifle at the forend tip you should be able to push the bbl away from the forend tip with your pointing finger on that hand.  That's pretty much all you can do unless there is actually something major wrong.  I won't get into what that may be.  Actually it's easier to do than it is to describe.  Also I'm taking for granted that the scope and mounts were installed correctly.
 
  I've got a soft spot in my heart for the 7MM Remington Magnum.  The first big game hunting rifle I bought (and eventually realized it was the only rifle I ever would have needed) was a M700 Classic chambered for it.  BUT it went down road. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 12:24
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Nosler would be a good place to start, I'm not sure who else loads the Accubond.

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 12:26
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Winchester, Federal, and Double Tap all load the Inter-bonds. I mean accu-bonds... 




Too many bullets on my brain this morning...
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 12:30
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Originally posted by 300S&W 300S&W wrote:

 
  I was just wondering if you checked out the rifle before you shot it.  I completely disassemble any new rifle and check things out before I shoot them.  Disassemble the bolt and degrease it inside and out. Carb cleaner works good. I then put a small amount of hi temp grease behind each locking lug and on the cocking cam and in it's slot.  Degrease the chamber and inside the bbl. For the trigger assembly I flush it out with lighter fluid and let it air dry. Then look for any oddities in the stock action bedding area like wood chips,any excessive build up of finish,or anything imbedded in the finish.  When reassembling the rifle make sure the recoil lug is set against the back of where it seats before tighting the action screws.  I grip the bbl and forend with one hand a bump the butt on the floor and grip firmly.  Hold tight as you install the action screws and make sure they aren't binding on the stock as they thread in.  How tight to make the screws?  Some use a torque wrench.  I alternate front to back and then make the front screw REAL TIGHT and the back one TIGHT. The middle one,if it has one, is just for adjusting for proper floorplate closure and is no more than snugged.  Then I check for bbl to stock forend clearance and proper forend tip pressure unless it's a free floating bbl.  Using one hand holding the rifle at the forend tip you should be able to push the bbl away from the forend tip with your pointing finger on that hand.  That's pretty much all you can do unless there is actually something major wrong.  I won't get into what that may be.  Actually it's easier to do than it is to describe.  Also I'm taking for granted that the scope and mounts were installed correctly.
 
  I've got a soft spot in my heart for the 7MM Remington Magnum.  The first big game hunting rifle I bought (and eventually realized it was the only rifle I ever would have needed) was a M700 Classic chambered for it.  BUT it went down road. 
 
After reading your suggestions, I guess I may have taken a few things for granted. I will check the rifle over and once I get some 160's I'll head back out the range.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 13:03
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  That's been my routine for alot of yrs on my rifles as well as those of others.  A good intial going over eliminates any basic things that may cause a rifle not to realize it's out of the box accuracy potential.  GOOD LUCK to ya!!!
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 13:25
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If you try several other types of ammo, have confidence in your shooting, know you have all the rings, bases and stock screws properly torqued, and you continue to have poor or erratic accuracy:   Check the rifle bedding.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 13:51
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Will do, thanks guys. While I'm not an expert rifle shot, under range conditions I'm not the worst either. I still have hope for this combo. I think the 160 accubonds will help.

Where's a good place to buy the accubonds?

Edited by mil169 - June/03/2012 at 18:06
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/03/2012 at 22:40
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my thoughts have been that if you need anything heavier than a 160gr bullet in 7mm, you need a bigger a gun...... like a .300 or .338.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/04/2012 at 17:07
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A bit embarrasing but to those who contributed, I'm pretty sure I found my flaw.
 
The long story is that when I mounted my scope I maxed out the eye relief, meaning I couldn't bring the scope any further back because the front ring was next to the bell. So when I set it,  I didn't loctite down the clamp screws, but only torqued them thinking it would make through one day at the range. When I checked the screws last night, they were definitely working themselves loose. So today I ordered an extended front base from SWFA and once it is here I will remount the scope and loctite everything in place.
 
I also ordered a box of Federa Premium 160grn Accubonds, so when I get those things squared away I should be ready for the range to get a zero put on the thing.
 
On a side note, how do you all go about getting eye relief set. With a t-shirt on, my current position is good, what I'm worried about is with heaver clothing not being able to get the rifle pulled back far enough.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/04/2012 at 17:33
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Originally posted by pyro6999 pyro6999 wrote:

my thoughts have been that if you need anything heavier than a 160gr bullet in 7mm, you need a bigger a gun...... like a .300 or .338.

7mmSTW "carries" a 175gr quite well at very high velocities. 3000fps +.  It competes very well with 300WM.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/04/2012 at 17:46
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I improved the accuracy quite a bit by pillar bedding the front screw in my M70 Featherweight in 7mm-08.  When I removed the receiver, I found that the recoil lug and both action screws were bedded.  I don't have a drill press, so I didn't want to chance screwing up the rear action screw, and only drilled out the front screw for the adjustable pillar.  Once I got the pillar the correct length, I put blue loctite on it until it set.  Then, with about 1/16" gap on all sides of the pillar, I put plumber's putty in the pillar and bedded it with Devcon.  I added a skim coat of Devcon around the pillar, which takes all of the wood out of the equation from the recoil lug back to that point.

The barrel was already free floated, but the receiver is in contact with wood up to the point of the recoil lug.  Just putting in the aluminum pillar at the front of the receiver made a big difference.  Mine was not shooting very well at first, either.  I suppose if I'm conscientious, I'll take the stock to a gunsmith and have the rear pillar installed as well.  As it is right now, it shoots pretty well, so I'll try it again next time I can go out and shoot.  Good luck to you.

Deck




Edited by DCAMM94 - June/07/2012 at 23:54
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/05/2012 at 20:59
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I guess I should have added that mine is the Ultimate Shadow version. Extended base and ammo are on the way. Hopefully next week I can get to the range.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/06/2012 at 09:27
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I think there's some good advice here, and I'll just chime in with my thoughts even though it may be a little repetitive. 

I'd leave the cleaning stuff at home too.  Lot's of rifles shoot better when 'fouled".  I also am not a big believer in barrel break-in.  I did just purchase a semi-custom 7mag from Hill Country Rifles.  Those guys know the program.  They guarantee a sub MOA 3 shot group with factory ammo before they ship it out to you.  For the 7mag, they have proven, at least in their minds, that the most accurate factory load, the ammo that they do their MOA testing with, is Hornady Custom 154gr SP's.  Mine shoots .445 3 shot groups with that particular ammo.  I also believe any Remington, Winchester, or Ruger are good candidates to benefit from a glass bedding job.  It's easy to do yourself and cheap.  At least by doing that ahead of time you can rule out any bedding issues causing innaccuracy.   
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/07/2012 at 22:09
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O.k fellers, got the new stuff today. Remounted the scope with the extended front base, ended up moving it back only 1/8", but it did make the rifle feel better. Also loctited everything down this time, so I should be good there. My Federal Premium Vital-Shok 160grn Accubonds also arrived. Now I can't wait to get back to the range and see what me and the new rifle can do. I'm going to try to get a hold of another box of the Hornady 154grn Superformance SST's and see how they compare to the accubonds. I also have a box of the Winchester 175grn powerpoints. Those are plenty heavy, but just curious to see if I can tell a differance in group size.
 
Unfortunately I will be gone all weekend so it will be next week before I can get out. But I'll let you know how it goes.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/08/2012 at 08:26
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Sounds good.  Looking foward to the report back. 
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/03/2012 at 17:18
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Here's what the great Gale McMillan said about barrel break in:
http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html

Isn't it funny how just an 1/8" can make a big difference in scope placement.
You're gonna have to get us some pics of that new rig!

Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/09/2012 at 20:56
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Hey sorry guys, it got real busy around here the last few week and I haven't been home much on the weekends to shoot it again. I'm really looking forward to the next session and just being able to shoot it. I have the Federal Premium 160grn Nosler Accubonds to try and can't wait to see what it will do. Hopefully I can do my part.
 
I do have a question though. Should I just set the scope on 4.5x (lowest setting) or should I zero it on what power the Ziess balistic calculator tells me what will maket the subtensions the most accurate?
 
I'll get pics soon.
 
Thanks for all the help and advice.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/11/2012 at 21:54
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You zero the scope at 200 yards. Power setting doesn't matter while zeroing, just in determining the range. There will be one magnification setting which will be accurate with a particular load and a different setting with a different load.
Many have found that once the scope is zeroed at 200 yards, the power setting can be "tuned" at greater ranges- hopefully 400 yds, as each rifle will perform just a little differently. For instance, you might need to adjust your settings from e.g. 10.5x to 11x to compensate for all the variables with yur particular setup which differ from Zeiss' optics program.
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)     Back to Top Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/12/2012 at 08:46
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Originally posted by Alan Robertson Alan Robertson wrote:

Here's what the great Gale McMillan said about barrel break in:
http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html

Isn't it funny how just an 1/8" can make a big difference in scope placement.
You're gonna have to get us some pics of that new rig!



I've never been a fan of breaking in a barrel.  Never done it, never had any issues. 
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